Facial Aging Improvement Case Study Using a Novel Combination of Retinol, Niacinamide, and Terminalia Chebula

July 2022 | Volume 21 | Issue 7 | 784 | Copyright © July 2022


Published online June 30, 2022

Marc Z. Handler MDa,b,c, Alison Adams-Woodford BA LEd, Patty Ayres LE CMLTe, Giorgiana Giancola PhDf, Isabel Diaz BAg

aDepartment of Dermatology, Metropolitan Hospital, New York, NY
bDepartment of Dermatology, Rutgers New Jersey Medical School, Newark, NJ
cDermatology, Hackensack Meridian School of Medicine, Nutley, NJ
dR&D and Communications, Physicians Care Alliance (PCA) Skin, Scottsdale, AZ
ePhysicians Care Alliance (PCA) Skin, Scottsdale, AZ
fScientific Affairs, Colgate-Palmolive Company, Piscataway, NJ
gDermal Clinical Research, Colgate-Palmolive Company, Piscataway, NJ




The questionnaire also asked participants to comment on their perception of fine lines, wrinkles, and discoloration. An analysis of these data demonstrated a statistically significant improvement in all categories (P=.003).

DISCUSSION

All-trans-retinol has been used in cosmetic products since the mid-1980s but has been further investigated in numerous studies in the subsequent decades. Some of the demonstrated anti-aging benefits of retinol are increased collagen synthesis, reduced activity of the MMP collagenase1, and reduced melanogenesis.6 Recent technological advances have boosted the penetration of retinol. By using an encapsulation system via a thermodynamically stable multi-layered liposomal delivery, retinol penetration is increased in the skin. In addition to improved epidermal penetration, time release of the 0.5% retinol into the skin also minimizes topical irritation due to application.

The addition of 4% niacinamide to a 0.5% retinol formulation enhances anti-aging outcomes, by reducing glycation-related yellowing of the skin.7 Additionally, the improvement in skin discoloration due to the inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte and the reduction of wrinkle depth are additional anti-aging contributions of topically applied niacinamide.7

To further support the reduction in age-related skin degradation, the tannin-rich botanical extract, terminalia chebula, naturally found in the fruit of the myrobalan tree, was included. Terminalia chebula has demonstrated efficacy as an antioxidant, antiglycation, and anti-aging component in topical formulations.8

CONCLUSION

Since Kligman et al research on vitamin A derivatives and skin, such products have become a staple in an anti-aging regimen. Additional ingredients, such as niacinamide and terminalia chebula have been reported to reduce dyspigmentation and improve skin texture. This is the first study testing the benefit of using these ingredients in combination.

The unique 0.5% retinol formulation of Intensive Age Refining Treatment demonstrated efficacy in reducing the visible signs of facial aging in a majority of subjects, with 100% of subjects reporting overall global improvement. In addition to efficacy, Intensive Age Refining Treatment produced no topical irritation amongst subjects, a benefit over other similar products. This study validated the use of this unique retinol topical for aging skin.

DISCLOSURES

Dr. Handler is a consultant for the Colgate-Palmolive Company. Alison Adams-Woodford and Patty Ayres are employed by PCA SKIN®. Dr. Giancola and Isabel Diaz are employed by the Colgate-Palmolive Company.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

Mark Vandeven, Director of Statistics, Predictive Innovation & Statistics, Colgate-Palmolive, Piscataway, NJ.

REFERENCES

1. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4) 327-348.