The Importance of Photoprotection and Moisturization in Treating Acne Vulgaris

August 2014 | Volume 13 | Issue 8 | Supplement Individual Articles | 89 | Copyright © August 2014


Whitney P. Bowe MDa and Leon H. Kircik MDb

aIcahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, New York, NY
bIcahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, New York, NY; Indiana University School of Medicine, Indianapolis, IN;
Physicians Skin Care, PLLC, Louisville, KY

Licorice derivatives are increasingly used in therapeutic and cosmeceutical formulations for their anti-inflammatory effects and skin brightening effects.27 Acne vulgaris is characteristic of excess sebum production and the induction of inflammatory reactions via the cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2 ) pathway.28 To counteract this inflammatory cascade, licorice derivatives have demonstrated the capacity to suppress the inflammatory responses of the COX-2 and PGE2 pathway.26
The herbal formulations of G glabra have also been used to treat a number of dermatologic disorders, including dermatitis, eczema, pruritus, and cysts.29 Moreover, G glabra has demonstrated considerable antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes that resulted in a minimal induction of resistance when compared with the marked development of resistance that was induced in P acnes treated with erythromycin.30

Silica Beads and Corn Starch

Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 also contains silica beads and corn starch, which are sebum absorbent. Silica beads and corn starch have been shown not only to significantly reduce sebum, but also to reduce “facial shine,” an oily sheen of sebum that becomes pronounced on the faces of AV patients.4
A study evaluated the potential of Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 to mitigate sebum and “facial shine.”4 After application of Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 to the faces of AV patients, sebum excretion rates were measured using a Sebumeter, and Sebutape was also used to collect sebum released from infundibular reservoirs.4 The investigators found that “facial shine” and sebum levels were significantly reduced within hours of Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 application, and the effect lasted for up to 8 hours.4
The reduction of sebum production and “facial shine” is essential in the management of AV patients’ psychosocial morbiditites because “facial shine” can be emotionally disconcerting to AV patients. Moreover, by incorporating sebosuppressive and sebum- absorbent ingredients (ie, zinc gluconate, silica beads, and corn starch), and also Ceramide Technology, Cetaphil Derma- Control Moisturizer SPF 30 is a formulation that reduces “oil” or sebum while simultaneously preventing TEWL and enhancing skin hydration.

CONCLUSION

Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 provides broad spectrum photoprotection while improving moisturization, and is designed for patients with acne-prone skin. The key ingredients of the photoprotecting moisturizer are unique and specifically designed to balance the effects of acne treatments while not irritating the skin or exacerbating acne.

DISCLOSURES

Dr. Kircik has served as an advisor, investigator, consultant, and speaker for Allergan, Bayer, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, Promius Pharma, Quinnova, Stiefel/GSK, LeoPharma, Taro, Valeant, and Warner-Chilcott.
Dr. Bowe has served as a consultant, advisory board participant, and/or speaker for Allergan, Bayer, Galderma, Johnson and Johnson, L’Oreal USA, Onset Therapeutics, and Proctor and Gamble.

REFERENCES

  1. Goodman G. Cleansing and moisturizing in acne patients. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2009;10(suppl 1):s1-s6.
  2. Thiboutot D, Del Rosso JQ. Acne vulgaris and the epidermal barrier: is acne vulgaris associated with inherent epidermal abnormalities that cause impairment of barrier functions? Do any topical acne therapies alter the structural and/or functional integrity of the epidermal barrier? J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013;6(2):18-24.
  3. Bikowski J. The use of therapeutic moisturizers in various dermatologic disorders. Cutis. 2001;68(suppl 5):s3-s11.
  4. Del Rosso JQ. The role of skin care as an integral component in the management of acne vulgaris: Part 1: The importance of cleanser and moisturizer ingredients, design, and product selection. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol.2013;6(12):19-27.
  5. Del Rosso JQ, Brandt S. The role of skin care as an integral component in the management of acne vulgaris. Part 2: Tolerability and performance of a designated skin care regimen using a foam wash and moisturizer SPF 30 in patients with acne vulgaris undergoing active treatment. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013;6(12):28-36.
  6. Schorr ES, Sidou F, Kerrouche N. Adjunctive use of a facial moisturizer SPF 30 containing ceramide precursor improves tolerability of topical tretinoin 0.05%: a randomized, investigator-blinded, split-face study. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012;11(9):1104-1107.
  7. Schwartz JR, Marsh RG, Draelos ZD. Zinc and skin health: overview of physiology and pharmacology. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 pt 2):837-847.
  8. Dreno B, Amblard P, Agache P, Sirot S, Litoux P. Low doses of zinc gluconate for inflammatory acne. Acta Derm Venereol. 1989;69(6):541-543.
  9. Sardena K, Garg VK. An observational study of methionine-bound zinc with antioxidants for mild to moderate acne vulgaris. Dermatol Ther.2010;23(4):411-418.
  10. Piérard-Franchimont C, Goffin V, Visser JN, Jacoby H, Piérard GE. A double-blind controlled evaluation of the sebosuppressive activity of topical erythromycin-zinc complex. Eur J Clin Pharmacol. 1995;49(1-2):57-60.
  11. Piérard GE, Piérard-Franchimont C. Effect of a topical erythromycin-zinc formulation on sebum delivery. Evaluation by combined photometric-multi-step samplings with Sebutape. Clin Exp Dermatol. 1993;18(5):410-413.
  12. Sambandan DR, Ratner D. Sunscreens: an overview and update. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64(4):748-758.
  13. Parthibane V, Rajakumari S, Venkateshwari V, Iyappan R, Rajasekharan R. Oleosin is bifunctional enzyme that has both monoacylglycerol acyltransferase and phospholipase activities. J Biol Chem. 2012;287(3):1946-1954.
  14. Hydresia—Oleosomes Technology Overview. Available at http://www.botaneco.ca. Accessed June 24, 2014.
  15. Pappas A. Epidermal surface lipids. Dermatoendocrinol. 2009;1(2):72-76.
  16. Castiel-Higounenc I, Ferraris C, Lavalle A, et al. Exogenous sphinganin derived sphingolipid increases epidermal ceramide content in human reconstructed skin. Nouv Dermatol. 1999;18:541-546.