Licorice derivatives are increasingly used in therapeutic and
cosmeceutical formulations for their anti-inflammatory effects
and skin brightening effects.27 Acne vulgaris is characteristic of
excess sebum production and the induction of inflammatory
reactions via the cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and prostaglandin
E2 (PGE2 ) pathway.28 To counteract this inflammatory cascade,
licorice derivatives have demonstrated the capacity to suppress
the inflammatory responses of the COX-2 and PGE2 pathway.26
The herbal formulations of G glabra have also been used to treat a
number of dermatologic disorders, including dermatitis, eczema,
pruritus, and cysts.29 Moreover, G glabra has demonstrated considerable
antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes
that resulted in a minimal induction of resistance when compared
with the marked development of resistance that was
induced in P acnes treated with erythromycin.30
Silica Beads and Corn Starch
Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 also contains silica
beads and corn starch, which are sebum absorbent. Silica beads
and corn starch have been shown not only to significantly reduce
sebum, but also to reduce “facial shine,†an oily sheen of
sebum that becomes pronounced on the faces of AV patients.4
A study evaluated the potential of Cetaphil DermaControl
Moisturizer SPF 30 to mitigate sebum and “facial shine.â€4 After
application of Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 to the
faces of AV patients, sebum excretion rates were measured using
a Sebumeter, and Sebutape was also used to collect sebum
released from infundibular reservoirs.4 The investigators found
that “facial shine†and sebum levels were significantly reduced
within hours of Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 application,
and the effect lasted for up to 8 hours.4
The reduction of sebum production and “facial shine†is essential
in the management of AV patients’ psychosocial morbiditites
because “facial shine†can be emotionally disconcerting to AV
patients. Moreover, by incorporating sebosuppressive and sebum-
absorbent ingredients (ie, zinc gluconate, silica beads, and
corn starch), and also Ceramide Technology, Cetaphil Derma-
Control Moisturizer SPF 30 is a formulation that reduces “oilâ€
or sebum while simultaneously preventing TEWL and enhancing
skin hydration.
CONCLUSION
Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 provides broad spectrum
photoprotection while improving moisturization, and is
designed for patients with acne-prone skin. The key ingredients
of the photoprotecting moisturizer are unique and specifically
designed to balance the effects of acne treatments while not
irritating the skin or exacerbating acne.
DISCLOSURES
Dr. Kircik has served as an advisor, investigator, consultant, and
speaker for Allergan, Bayer, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, Promius
Pharma, Quinnova, Stiefel/GSK, LeoPharma, Taro, Valeant,
and Warner-Chilcott.
Dr. Bowe has served as a consultant, advisory board participant,
and/or speaker for Allergan, Bayer, Galderma, Johnson and Johnson,
L’Oreal USA, Onset Therapeutics, and Proctor and Gamble.
REFERENCES
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- Thiboutot D, Del Rosso JQ. Acne vulgaris and the epidermal barrier: is acne vulgaris associated with inherent epidermal abnormalities that cause impairment of barrier functions? Do any topical acne therapies alter the structural and/or functional integrity of the epidermal barrier? J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013;6(2):18-24.
- Bikowski J. The use of therapeutic moisturizers in various dermatologic disorders. Cutis. 2001;68(suppl 5):s3-s11.
- Del Rosso JQ. The role of skin care as an integral component in the management of acne vulgaris: Part 1: The importance of cleanser and moisturizer ingredients, design, and product selection. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol.2013;6(12):19-27.
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- Piérard-Franchimont C, Goffin V, Visser JN, Jacoby H, Piérard GE. A double-blind controlled evaluation of the sebosuppressive activity of topical erythromycin-zinc complex. Eur J Clin Pharmacol. 1995;49(1-2):57-60.
- Piérard GE, Piérard-Franchimont C. Effect of a topical erythromycin-zinc formulation on sebum delivery. Evaluation by combined photometric-multi-step samplings with Sebutape. Clin Exp Dermatol. 1993;18(5):410-413.
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- Castiel-Higounenc I, Ferraris C, Lavalle A, et al. Exogenous sphinganin derived sphingolipid increases epidermal ceramide content in human reconstructed skin. Nouv Dermatol. 1999;18:541-546.