membranes on the stratum corneum (SC), and, upon application, they significantly enhance its barrier function.14
Oleosomes can significantly augment the SPF-boosting potential of traditional
sunscreen products, especially those containing UVA and UVB sunscreen filters.
Because the performance of traditional sunscreen ingredients is augmented via
Oleosome Technology, fewer sunscreen filters are needed to provide the same
level of broad-spectrum UV protection. Minimizing AV patients’ exposure to
sun filters is highly desirable as the filters have the potential to exacerbate
their AV.12 Extensive in vivo clinical testing has been completed on several
Oleosome Technology™ formulations that have minimal sun filter concentrations of
octylmethoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, but yield exceptionally
high SPF values that are consistent and stable over time.12 Cetaphil DermaControl
Moisturizer SPF 30 is composed of 15% sunscreen filters, whereas many moisturizers
are composed of between 18.5% and 28.4% sunscreen filters (Table 2).12
Ceramide Technology
Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 also incorporates patented Ceramide Technology™.
The SC is primarily composed of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol, which play
an integral role in the skin barrier function of the upper layer of the
SC because their synthesis restricts water movement and penetration.15
Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 contains a pseudo-ceramide—hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine—that
is structurally similar to ceramide 5.16 When hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine is grown in a media
of cultured human reconstructed skin, the resultant effect is a proliferation
of ceramides 1, 2, and 3. Consequently, exogenous hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine
is able to induce the production endogenous ceramides.16
Yamamoto and colleagues conducted a study that evaluated the sebum secretion rate,
lipid content (including ceramides), and water barrier function of the SC in 36 AV
patients and 29 healthy controls.17 The investigators found that a significantly
elevated sebum secretion rate in AV patients was accompanied by impairment in water
barrier function and a marked decrease of ceramides.17 Moreover, linoleic acid has
been shown to be an essential structural component of ceramides, and linoleic acid undergoes a
rapid oxidation and degradation process in sebaceous cells.18,19
Skin barrier dysfunction is commonly associated with conditions such as atopic
dermatitis, but studies like the one conducted by Yamamoto and colleagues highlight
the emerging evidence that supports the link between skin barrier dysfunction and AV.
If the skin barrier is compromised in AV, even in the absence of therapies such as retinoids
and BPO, might gentle skin care and
moisturization play an even greater role than initially suspected?
Beta-Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Cetaphil DermaControl Moisturizer SPF 30 contains beta-glycyrrhetinic acid,
which is derived from the licorice species Glycyrrhiza glabra by hydroalcoholic
extraction hydrolysis and crystallization methods. The G glabra species of licorice has
been used for millennia in Western and Eastern medicine.20 Pharmacological analysis has
shown that G glabra has a wide spectrum of medicinal applications that are hepato-protective,
anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, and antiviral.21-26
