Rejuvenating Hydrator: Restoring Epidermal Hyaluronic Acid Homeostasis With Instant Benefits

January 2016 | Volume 15 | Issue 1 | Supplement Individual Articles | 24 | Copyright © January 2016


Vic A. Narurkar MD,a Sabrina G. Fabi MD FAAD FAACS,b Vivian W. Bucay MD FAAD,c Ruth Tedaldi MD,d Jeanine B. Downie MD,e Joshua A. Zeichner MD,f Kimberly Butterwick MD,g Amy Taub MD,h Kuniko Kadoya PhD,i Elizabeth T. Makino BS MBA CCRA,i Rahul C. Mehta PhD,i and Virginia L. Vega PhDi

aBay Area Laser Institute, San Francisco, CA
bDepartment of Dermatology, University of California San Diego, CA
cBucay Center for Dermatology and Aesthetics, San Antonio, TX
dDermatology Partners, Inc, Wellesley, MA
eImage Dermatology, Montclair, NJ
fDepartment of Dermatology, Mount Sinai Hospital, New York, NJ
gCosmetic Laser Dermatology, La Jolla, CA
hAdvanced Dermatology, Lincolshire, IL
iResearch & Development, SkinMedica Inc., an Allergan Company, Irvine, CA

table 7
to deliver any HA into the epidermis where this GAG controls key processes to maintain healthy skin such as keratinocytes proliferation and differentiation, among others.
The approach of SkinMedica (an Allergan company, Irvine, CA) to the epidermal HA dilemma led to the creation of HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator. Its goal was to combine 2 breakthrough technologies that retrain the skin to enhance endogenous epidermal HA production and prevent its degradation while providing an instant effect in smoothing fine lines and wrinkles and improving hydration. A breakthrough technology (VitisenSCE) was created for this product to stimulate the synthesis of endogenous HA while restoring epidermal homeostasis. VitisenSCE technology is powered by a flower stem cell extract in combination with marine micro-organism polysaccharides and peptides complex. Instant effects are delivered by combining 5 different forms of HA (labile cross-linked HA, time-release encapsulated HA, and HA with 3 different molecular weights) in combination with natural biopolymers and plankton extract. The rationale behind this mix was to provide an instant large water trapping capacity that can be sustained during extended periods of time (8-12 hours). Table 1 lists the 5 critical functions of epidermal HA and some of the biological markers that can be monitored to evaluate epidermal homeostasis.

Biological Testing

The ability of HA5 to enhance epidermal homeostasis and promote endogenous production of epidermal HA was measured using EpiDerm Full Thickness, 3D human skin model (EFT-400, MatTek Corporation, Ashland MA, USA). In brief,