Improving Body Skin Quality: Evidence-Based Development of Topical Treatment and Survey of Current Options

June 2022 | Volume 21 | Issue 6 | 653 | Copyright © June 2022


Published online May 30, 2022

Sabrina G. Fabi MDa,b, David McDaniel MDc, Janet Allenby DOd, Kuniko Kadoya PhDe, Tsing Cheng PhDe

aDivision of Dermatology, University of California, San Diego, CA
bWest Dermatology, San Diego, CA
cMcDaniel Institute of Aging Research, Virginia Beach, VA
dAllenby Cosmetic Dermatology, Delray Beach, FL
eAllergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company, Irvine, CA

Abstract
The growing interest in improving the quality of body (as distinct from facial) skin may be in part attributable to the expanding use of noninvasive body contouring procedures. In this review, we describe a new framework characterizing the factors that define skin quality (including visual, textural, and biomechanical attributes) that provides a foundation for improved assessment of skin quality and its response to treatment. We then highlight critical biological pathways responsible for body skin restoration and maintenance that have been identified during the development of restorative topical products. Each of these pathways, including extracellular matrix support, suppression of lipogenesis, and enhancement of cellular/macromolecular recycling and clearance, lymphatic drainage, and lipolysis, is a potential target of 1 or more bioactive substances. A survey of available topical products marketed for skin quality improvement suggests that none target more than 2 of these pathways (including extracellular matrix support, lipolysis, and autophagy, a component of cellular recycling), leaving abundant opportunity for development of new topical formulations that target all or most of the critical pathways. Such formulations may provide improved outcomes when used as standalone products for general skin quality improvement and rejuvenation, in addition to their potential for post-procedure use, and also for pre-procedure skin conditioning.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(6):653-658. doi:10.36849/JDD.6811

INTRODUCTION

Skin is at once the largest and the most visible organ of the human body, and it can also provide an all-too-accurate reflection of internal health. Changes in skin quality attributes, such as those associated with aging, systemic disease, or injury, can substantially degrade self-image, self-esteem, and overall quality of life.1 It is therefore unsurprising that a seemingly limitless selection of commercially available products hold out the promise of skin quality improvement and/or restoration.

Interest in the improvement of body skin (as distinct from facial skin) quality is increasing, driven in part by the growing use of noninvasive body contouring (NIBC) procedures, which employ thermal, electromagnetic, or ultrasonic energy to induce apoptosis of subcutaneous adipocytes, and consequent recontouring of subcutaneous fat deposits. NIBC procedures, because they reduce the volume of fat deposits, often lead to skin laxity, and may also affect other skin properties. Interest in NIBC procedures has increased greatly in recent years as patient outcomes have been optimized and recovery time reduced.2

In this narrative review, we present approaches to the restoration or improvement of body skin quality. We first describe a multidimensional characterization of the elements that define high-quality skin with respect to visual, tactile, and biomechanical properties. We then explore the key physiological and signaling pathways critical to restoring or improving skin quality, as well as the potential to modulate those pathways; and finally, we review published clinical studies of topical products for skin quality improvement.

Skin Quality: In Search of an Elusive Goal
The improvement of "skin quality" is the objective of a wide range of aesthetic procedures, and an even wider selection of topical products, aimed both at correcting extant problems (eg, those associated with aging) and at recovery following injury or cosmetic procedures.3-8 An initial challenge was to implement a conceptual framework that properly captures the parameters that help define skin quality.

Numerous terms (many poorly defined at best) are employed to describe components of skin quality: tone, radiance, elasticity, oiliness, uniformity, pigmentation, wrinkling, crepiness, erythema, roughness, and many others.9 Many negative terms are applied to age-related changes arising from intrinsic or extrinsic factors; for these terms, the absence of the attribute in question (eg, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, roughness) denotes skin of higher quality. Importantly, few of these terms have been