expression, it has a much better tolerability profile than retinoids and does not require dose escalation. It is also photostable providing for greater formulation ease. Finally, bakuchiol is not phototoxic requiring the use of sunscreens.
The nature-based ingredient bakuchiol (1% w/w) was placed in a moisturizing vehicle that improved photoaging and did not damage the skin barrier, as noted by no increase in TEWL, resulting in enhanced moisturization, demonstrated by a 16% increase in corneometry. The major moisturizing ingredients in the formulation included the naturals glycerin and beeswax along with Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil and Glycine soja (soybean) oil. Emollients to smooth the rough skin surface included cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, both derived from natural plant ingredients. The formulation was thickened with cornstarch and xanthan gum. Finally, the oil-based ingredients were emulsified into the water with decyl cocoate derived from coconut oil. Nature-based formulations are more challenging, but clever use of natural ingredients can provide products suitable for sensitive skin.
The nature-based bakuchiol cleanser/moisturizer combination had good tolerability in a challenging sensitive skin population while producing improvement in smoothness, clarity, radiance, overall appearance, and global anti-aging after 4 weeks of use. The minimal stinging observed in eczema subjects may be due to exisiting poor barrier function while the tightness could be related to winter weather during the study and the restriction that subjects could use the cleanser/moisturizer only twice daily for consistency. The subjects with eczema/atopic dermatitis did not experience worsening barrier function, the subjects with rosacea did not experience increased flushing or inflammatory papules, and the cosmetic intolerance syndrome subjects were able to use the products without facial sensory discomfort.
The nature-based ingredient bakuchiol (1% w/w) was placed in a moisturizing vehicle that improved photoaging and did not damage the skin barrier, as noted by no increase in TEWL, resulting in enhanced moisturization, demonstrated by a 16% increase in corneometry. The major moisturizing ingredients in the formulation included the naturals glycerin and beeswax along with Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil and Glycine soja (soybean) oil. Emollients to smooth the rough skin surface included cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, both derived from natural plant ingredients. The formulation was thickened with cornstarch and xanthan gum. Finally, the oil-based ingredients were emulsified into the water with decyl cocoate derived from coconut oil. Nature-based formulations are more challenging, but clever use of natural ingredients can provide products suitable for sensitive skin.
The nature-based bakuchiol cleanser/moisturizer combination had good tolerability in a challenging sensitive skin population while producing improvement in smoothness, clarity, radiance, overall appearance, and global anti-aging after 4 weeks of use. The minimal stinging observed in eczema subjects may be due to exisiting poor barrier function while the tightness could be related to winter weather during the study and the restriction that subjects could use the cleanser/moisturizer only twice daily for consistency. The subjects with eczema/atopic dermatitis did not experience worsening barrier function, the subjects with rosacea did not experience increased flushing or inflammatory papules, and the cosmetic intolerance syndrome subjects were able to use the products without facial sensory discomfort.
CONCLUSION
A bakuchiol based anti-aging cleanser and moisturizer was found to be suitable for use in sensitive skin subjects with eczema/ atopic dermatitis, rosacea, or cosmetic intolerance syndrome.
DISCLOSURES
Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, received funding from Burt’s Bees to perform the research. Hemali Gunt, PhD, is an employee of Burt’s Bees. Joshua Zeichner, MD, and Stanley Levy, MD, have both received funding from Burt’s Bees.
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AUTHOR CORRESPONDENCE
Zoe Diana Draelos MD zdraelos@northstate.net
