Racial and Ethnic Variations in Skin Barrier Properties and Cultural Practices in Skin of Color Newborns, Infants, and Children

July 2023 | Volume 22 | Issue 7 | 657 | Copyright © July 2023


Published online June 27, 2023

Lawrence A. Schachner MD FAAD FAAPa, Anneke Andriessen PhDb, Latanya Benjamin MD FAAD FAAPc, Mercedes E. Gonzalez MD FAADd, Pearl Kwong MD PhD FAADe, Heather Woolery-Lloyd MD FAADf, Candrice Heath MD FAAD FAAPg

aDepartment of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery, Prof Department of Pediatrics, Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine, University of Miami, FL 
bRadboud UMC, Nijmegen and Andriessen Consultants, Malden, The Netherlands 
cDepartment of Women's and Children's Health, Florida Atlantic University, Boca Raton, FL 
dDr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery, Leonard M. Miller School of Medicine, University of Miami, Medical Director, Pediatric Dermatology of Miami, Miami, FL
ePediatric Dermatology, Jacksonville, FL 
fSkin of Color Division, Dr Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery University of Miami, Miller School of Medicine Miami, FL
gLewis Katz School of Medicine, Department of Dermatology, Director of Pediatric Dermatology, Temple University Hospital, Philadelphia, PA



Given the vulnerability of their skin, safety is the primary consideration for the selection of skincare for newborns and infants. Additionally, SC surface pH, water content, and lipid composition must be considered when maintaining a healthy skin barrier.14,24 Soaps, surfactants, and detergents, especially those with a pH >6, may excessively remove skin lipids, elevating SC pH and damaging the newborn and infant skin.14,15  Gentle cleansers (pH 4.0-6.0) containing CERs and no soap are less irritating than alkaline soaps.14,15,24,59-66

A study in children comparing a synthetic cleanser of non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants (pH around 5.5) with water showed that neither the cleanser nor water compromised SC integrity.65 Other reports recommend that a gentle liquid cleanser (pH 4–6.5) is preferred for infants; however, studies are frequently small or have other methodological flaws.14,15,24,59-66

The advisors agreed that understanding cultural differences in everyday skincare practices is critical for developing an evidence base to substantiate SOC newborn, infant, and children's skincare practices. The advisors discussed how the potentially sensitizing ingredients, including the use of fragrance or essential oils, is often associated with cultural tradition. These culture practices are important to consider when recommending skincare products or practices to the parents of SOC newborns, infants, and children. 

The choice of cleanser and moisturizer is dependent on individual preference.14,15 However, the advice that may be given to parents includes the use of gentle cleansers and moisturizers containing a mixture of fatty acids, cholesterol, and CERs  (Figure 5).14,15,60,61