International Consensus on Anti-Aging Dermocosmetics and Skin Care for Clinical Practice Using the RAND/UCLA Appropriateness Method

January 2024 | Volume 23 | Issue 1 | 1337 | Copyright © January 2024


Published online December 16, 2023

Zoe D. Draelos MDa, Liu Wei MDb, Mukta Sachdev MDc, Bruna S. F. Bravo MDd, Vasanop Vachiramon MDe, Marie Jourdan MDf, Martina Kerscher MD PhDg, Catherine Delva h, Stephanie Leclerc-Mercier MDi

aDermatology Consulting Services, PLLC, High Point, NC 
bDepartment of Dermatology, Air Force General Hospital, Beijing, China
cDepartment of Dermatology, Manipal Hospital, Bangalore, India; MS Clinical Research Pvt Ltd, Bangalore, India
dClinica Bravo and Bravo Research Center, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 
eDivision of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, Faculty of Medicine Ramathibodi Hospital, Mahidol University, Bangkok, Thailand
fCentre Laser International de la Peau-Paris (CLIPP), Paris, France
gDivison of Cosmetic Sciences, University of Hamburg, Germany
hInferential, Paris, France
iLaboratoires Vichy International, Levallois-Perret, France 



In scenario 4, as men have more facial hair and are more prone to folliculitis, they are likely to find the appearance of tinted sunscreen/iron oxide inappropriate and not cosmetically acceptable. Antioxidants, C-xyloside, and peptides are all appropriate for men and women as both sexes need to protect and repair their skin from exposome factors and are affected by decreased synthesis of collagen and extracellular matrix compounds as they age. 

In scenario 4, with the risk of sun exposure, vitamin C and tranexamic acid are not recommended as they make skin more photosensitive. AHA should also be avoided before sun exposure as it could cause stinging and burning, especially when receiving isotretinoin treatment as this makes the skin very dry.

In scenario 5, low pH and high concentrations (up to 5%) of AHA should be avoided for darker FST IV to VI in both sexes due to the risk of PIH. A progressive application starting at low concentrations, with moisturizers to reduce irritation, is advised for thick skin to improve the complexion.

In scenario 5, a daily cleanser is recommended after exposure to pollution during the day and other antioxidants may also be recommended to combat pollution.

For scenario 6, the experts did not reach a consensus after 2 rounds of discussions on whether AHA should be avoided for dark phototypes after ablative laser treatment. Glycolic acid has low molecular weight and can penetrate the dermis, causing irritation and risk of hyperpigmentation for phototypes IV to VI, in both men and women. Four out of 7 experts would avoid AHA (including glycolic acid) in FST IV to VI after ablative laser treatment due to the elevated risk of PIH. Two experts indicated that it would not be the most appropriate first option, but they would use it with caution, while one expert uses it regularly in FST IV to VI with caution, avoiding high concentrations and low pH. Salicylic acid, which is a beta hydroxy acid, has a larger molecular weight and may be less irritating as it does not penetrate the dermis, but was not considered to be appropriate after ablative laser treatment.