Evaluation of a Moisturizing Cream with 20% Urea for Keratosis Pilaris

January 2024 | Volume 23 | Issue 1 | 1274 | Copyright © January 2024


Published online December 16, 2023

Erika McCormick BSca, Dillon Nussbaum MDa, Adam Friedman MDa, Hanh Pham MAb, Matthew H. Meckfessel PhDb, Christine Emesiani PharmDb

aDepartment of Dermatology, George Washington School of Medicine and Health Sciences, Washington, DC  bGalderma Laboratories, L.P., Dallas, TX

Abstract
Background: Keratosis pilaris (KP) is a benign dermatosis consisting of folliculocentric keratotic papules or pustules with surrounding erythema, often on proximal extensor surfaces of extremities. Management strategies for KP largely center on moisturization and exfoliation. Urea, a well-established ingredient in topical skincare, is a component of the natural moisturizing factors with concentration-dependent humectant, emollient, and exfoliative properties.  Given the overlap of urea’s properties and management goals of KP, a 4-week, open-label, noncomparative clinical study was conducted to evaluate a moisturizing cream formulated with 20% urea for use in KP.  Thirty participants aged 18 to 65 years with KP completed this study. After a 5-day washout period, study participants applied a 20% urea cream once daily to areas of KP for 4 weeks. At baseline, 1-week, and 4-week visits, clinical grading of skin texture, adverse event monitoring, and participant satisfaction questionnaires were conducted. After 1 week and 4 weeks of product use, the percent change in skin smoothness/texture from baseline was significant (P≤0.001). Furthermore, after 4 weeks of use, the majority of participants indicated satisfaction with the feel of their skin, as well as improved confidence and decreased embarrassment related to their skin. No significant adverse events were reported. Overall, the results of this study support that 20% urea cream is generally well tolerated and suitable for use in treating KP.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(1):1274-1277.     doi:10.36849/JDD.7806

INTRODUCTION

Keratosis pilaris (KP) is a common benign dermatosis affecting an estimated 50-80% of adolescents and 40% of adults worldwide.1 KP is diagnosed clinically based on the presence of folliculocentric keratotic papules or pustules with surrounding erythema, usually located on the proximal extensor surfaces of extremities.2  The etiology of KP is unknown but theorized to result from an inherited or acquired defect in the keratinization process, which results in follicular plugging, local inflammation, and retention hyperkeratosis.2,3 Despite its largely asymptomatic nature, KP can be associated with significant erythema or skin texture changes that are bothersome or cosmetically distressing to patients.4 Therapies for KP can improve the affected skin's appearance and relieve associated psychosocial stress; KP patients have reported embarrassment, decreased self-confidence, and social dysfunction related to their skin.5 KP may improve over time, but treatment options include topical emollients and keratolytics (typically containing lactic acid, salicylic acid, or urea), topical retinoids (particularly tazarotene), and other exfoliants, anti-inflammatory medications, or laser therapies.2,6,7 

Urea-containing preparations have been studied in a variety of dermatologic conditions including KP, KP-related conditions such as atopic dermatitis and ichthyosis vulgaris, psoriasis, xerosis, and hyperkeratotic-type tinea pedis.4,8-11 Urea is a component of the natural moisturizing factors with humectant, emollient, and keratolytic properties. At low concentrations (less than or equal to 10%), urea-based preparations increase skin hydration and moisturization, while high-concentration preparations (>10%) are exfoliating and can improve hyperkeratosis.9 Urea is generally well tolerated; mild and transient side effects reported at high doses include a stinging or burning sensation.8,11 With these properties in mind, a clinical study evaluated the therapeutic effects and tolerability of a moisturizing cream formulated with 20% urea (20% urea cream) for KP.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

An open-label, prospective, non-comparative, single center study was conducted to evaluate 20% urea cream in KP. Thirty participants aged 18 to 65 years old with KP on their arms or legs completed the study (Table 1). After a 5-day washout period, all participants applied 20% urea cream once daily to affected areas of KP. There were 3 visits during the study: initial/baseline, week 1, and week 4. At the baseline visit as well as the follow-up visits, digital photographs were taken in a standardized fashion. Photographs were then evaluated by multiple expert clinical graders (PhD, BS, MHI) for appearance of smoothness/texture