Over-the-Counter Topical Skincare Products: A Review of the Literature

February 2012 | Volume 11 | Issue 2 | Original Article | 220 | Copyright © February 2012

  1. Geesin JC, Gordon JS, Berg RA. Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate. Skin Pharmacol. 1993;6(1):65-71.
  2. Hata R, Senoo H. L-Ascorbic acid 2-phosphate stimulated collagen accumulation, cell proliferation and formation of a three-dimensional tissue-like substance by skin fibroblasts. J Cell Physiol. 1989;138(1):8-16.
  3. Kobayashi S, Takehana M, Itoh S, et al. Protective effect of magnesium- L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate against skin damage induced by UVB radiation. Photochem Photobiol. 1996;64(1):224-228.
  4. Darr D, Combs S, Dunston S, Manning T, Pinnell S. Topical vitamin C protects porcine skin from ultraviolet radiation-induced damage. Br J Dermatol. 1992;127(3):247-253.
  5. Carcamo JM, Pedraza A, Borquez-Ojeda O, Golde DS. Vitamin C suppresses TNF alpha-induced NF kappa B activation by inhibiting I kappa B alpha phosphorylation. Biochemistry. 2002;41(43):12995-13002.
  6. Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG, et al. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005;27(3):155-160.
  7. Burke KE. Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007;20(5):314-321.
  8. Beitner H. Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin. Br J Dermatol. 2003;149(4):841-849.
  9. Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, et al. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26(5):231-238.
  10. Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 pt 2):860-865.
  11. Osborne R, Mullins L, Robinson L. Topical N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide increase hyaluronan in vitro. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006;54:AB106.
  12. Bissett DL. Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefits. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006;5(4):309-315.
  13. Katayama K, Armendariz-Borunda J, Raghow R, et al. A pentapeptide from type I procollagen promotes extracellular matrix production. J Biol Chem. 268(14):9941-9944.
  14. Ndiaye M, Philippe C, Mukhtar H, Ahmad N. The grape antioxidant resveratrol for skin disorders: promise, prospects, and challenges. Arch Biochem Biophys. 2011;15;508(2):164-170.
  15. Matito C, Agell N, Sanchez-Tena S, Torres JL, Cascante M. Protective effect of structurally diverse grape procyanidin fractions against UV-induced cell damage and death. J Agric Food Chem. 2011;59(9):4489-4495.
  16. Tournas JA, Lin FH, Burch JA, et al. Ubiquinone, idebenone, and kinetin provide ineffective photoprotection to the skin when compared to a topical antioxidant combination of vitamins C and E with ferulic acid. J Invest Dermatol. 2006;126(5):1185-1187.
  17. Murray JC, Burch JA, Streilein RD, et al. A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008;59(3):481-425.
  18. Izumi T, Saito M, Obata A, et al. Oral intake of soy isoflavone aglycone improves the aged skin of adult women. J Nutr Sci Vitaminol. 2007;53(1):57-62.
  19. Huang CC, Hsu BY, Wu NL, et al. Anti-photoaging effects of soy isoflavone extract (aglycone and acetylglucoside form) from soybean cake. Int J Mol Sci. 2010;11(12):4782-4795.
  20. Camouse MM, Domingo DS, Swain FR, et al. Topical application of green and white tea extracts provides protection from solar-simulated ultraviolet light in human skin. Exp Dermatol. 2009;18(6):522-526.
  21. Janjua R, Munoz C, Gorell E, et al. A two-year, double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled trial of oral green tea polyphenols on the long-term clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin. Dermatol Surg. 2009;35(7):1057-1065.
  22. Bertin C, Zunino H, Pittet JC, et al. A double-blind evaluation of the activity of an anti-cellulite product containing retinol, caffeine, and ruscogenine by a combination of several non-invasive methods. J Cosmet Sci. 2001;52(4):199-210.
  23. Grossman R. The role of dimethylaminoethanol in cosmetic dermatology. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(1):39-47
  24. Tadini KA, Campos PM. In vivo skin effects of a dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) based formulation. Pharmazie. 2009;64(12):818-822.
  25. Fu JJ, Hillebrand GG, Raleigh P, et al. A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/ peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen. Br J Dermatol. 2010;162(3):647-654.
  26. Sachs DL, Kang S, Hammerberg C, et al. Topical fluorouracil for actinic keratoses and photoaging: a clinical and molecular analysis. Arch Dermatol. 2009;145(6):659-666.


Ellen Marmur MDMount Sinai Medical Center5 East 98th Street, Box, Fifth FloorNew York, NY 10029Phone: (212) 241-7092Fax: (212) 987-1197Ellen.Marmur@mssm.edu