The Use of Acneceuticals to Improve Acne Care: Introduction of a New Term and Review of the Literature

March 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 3 | 281 | Copyright © March 2025


Published online February 28, 2025

doi:10.36849/JDD.8817

Hilary Baldwin MDa, Helen Bui MDb, Valerie Callender MDc, Cheri Frey MDd, Adelaide Hebert MDe, Edward (Ted) MDf, Evan Rieder MDg, Todd Schlesinger MDh

aRutgers Robert Wood Johnson Medical Center, New Brunswick, NJ; The Acne Treatment and Research Center Brooklyn, NY
bHoward University College of Medicine, Washington, DC
cHoward University College of Medicine, Washington, DC; Callender Dermatology and Cosmetic Center, Glenn Dale, MD
dHoward University College of Medicine, Washington, DC
eMcGovern Medical School, Houston TX; Children’s Memorial Hermann Hospital, Houston, TX
fSanova Dermatology, Austin, TX
gPrivate Practice, New York, NY
hClinical Research Center of the Carolinas, Charleston SC; George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences, Washington, DC

Abstract
Background: Acne is a multifactorial inflammatory skin condition that commonly presents to the dermatology clinic. Treatment generally involves the use of pharmaceutical agents and procedural techniques. Recently, the importance of over-the-counter skin care in acne has been recognized in many studies. This paper introduces the term acneceuticals to encompass a wide range of FDA- monographed, yet non-prescription ingredients proven to alter the structure and function of acneic skin.
Methods: A panel of 8 dermatologists with an interest in acne and skin care performed a literature review of active skin care in acne. The role of acneceuticals in the treatment of acne - as monotherapy, adjunctive, and maintenance therapy - was evaluated using a modified Delphi approach. Studies were limited to in vivo human trials involving acne. Individual actives were assessed separately.
Results: The quality of evidence was moderate-to-low for many of the ingredients. Most of the actives included in the final assessment had been studied in vehicle-controlled, blinded, often comparative studies but enrolled a small number of subjects. In these studies, the acneceuticals were found to reduce lesion count, reduce sebum production, and improve efficacy of existing pharmacologic therapies.
Conclusion: Acneceuticals have demonstrated benefits in treating acne, alone or in conjunction with established pharmaceutical agents. These data allow us to make quality recommendations for our patients that should be a part of every patient encounter. The recommendations also serve as a guide for patients searching the internet for beneficial self-care products.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24(3):281-288. doi:10.36849/JDD.8817

INTRODUCTION

Acne is the most common cutaneous disease worldwide and the most frequent disorder to present to the dermatology practice. Although efficacious treatments exist, clinicians continue to search for better regimens with improved safety for our patients. Our patients search, too - with or without our guidance. Many patients are looking for more "natural" approaches to skin care. Selecting skincare products gives patients a satisfying sense of control that can help attenuate the psychological sequelae of acne. Unfortunately, the media and the internet abound with alternatives to prescription medications; many without efficacy and some with harmful consequences. Since delay in acne therapy is associated with an increased risk of scarring, uneducated postings can lead to permanent disfigurement. As a result, it is incumbent upon clinicians to be well-versed in routine skin care as well as active ingredients in over the counter (OTC) products that may augment care. Many clinicians fail to discuss skin care, missing an opportunity to enhance patient outcome.

Clinicians in the United States are far behind our European colleagues who have embraced the concept of what they have termed "dermocosmetics".1-3 Dermocosmetics are defined as products with both cosmetic and active ingredients that improve cutaneous disorders. The term "acneceuticals" is thus introduced to encompass formulations with active ingredients>