Ultraviolet Protection From a Patented Amino Acid Complex Technology

May 2024 | Volume 23 | Issue 5 | 366 | Copyright © May 2024


Published online April 30, 2024

Joanna Wu PhDa, Jin Namkoong PhDa, Sayantani Goswami PhDa, Joel L. Cohen MDb, Nadia Soliman

aSkin Research and Innovation, Colgate-Palmolive Company, Piscataway, NJ; EltaMD, Scottsdale, AZ 
bAboutSkin Dermatology & AboutSkin Research, PC, Greenwood Village, CO; University of California Irvine Department of Dermatology, Irvine, CA

Abstract
Objective:  This study aimed to investigate the ultraviolet (UV) protection/repair benefits of a patented Amino Acid Complex (AAComplex).
Methods:
I) AAComplex was incubated with dermal fibroblasts, with/without UVA, and collagen I was measured with a GlasBoxPlus device. II) A lotion, with/without AAComplex (1%) was applied topically to skin explants, following UVA irradiation, and quantified for health-related biomarkers (TNFalpha, histamine, and MMP-1). III) A broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 46 and a skincare serum containing AAComplex (2%) were assessed using epidermal equivalents, in the presence of UV irradiation, for effects on IL-1alpha, thymine dimers, Ki-67, filaggrin and Nrf2.
Results: I) Collagen I synthesis in dermal fibroblasts was significantly decreased after UVA compared to without UV. The presence of AAComplex prevented this decrease. II) UVA irradiation of skin explants increased histamine, TNFα, and MMP-1. Hydrocortisone aceponate cream significantly decreases all 3 biomarkers. AAComplex contained lotion also significantly decreased all 3 biomarkers, the no AAComplex control lotion only reduced histamine. III) With the regimen of sunscreen + AAComplex contained skincare serum, the significant reduction in IL-1alpha was observed along with a complete recovery of Ki-67 and stimulation of filaggrin and Nrf2T. No thymine dimer positive cell was observed indicating the most positive skin impact from the regiment. 
Conclusion: This research using different human skin models demonstrated that AAComplex can provide protection and damage repair caused by UV, at the ingredient level also when formulated in a serum or lotion formula. Skin may be best protected from UV damage when the regimen is used.  

J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(5):366-375. doi:10.36849/JDD.7916

INTRODUCTION

Sunlight is critical for the maintenance of life on Earth; however, the ultraviolet (UV) wavelengths (100 nm - 400 nm) associated with sunlight can induce adverse reactions in human skin. The strong intensity ultraviolet C (UVC) (100 nm - 280 nm) is mostly blocked by the ozone layer of the Earth's atmosphere, while UVB radiation (280 nm - 320 nm) and UVA radiation (320 nm - 400 nm) reach the Earth's surface and ultimately the skin.1-3 Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is absorbed in the epidermis, the uppermost layer of the skin, causing sunburn and DNA damage, such as thymine dimer formation. On the other hand, longer wavelength UVA radiation penetrates the skin deeper and into the dermis, causing harm through oxidation.4

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends that everyone should use a sunscreen product on a daily basis when they are outdoors. They should choose products that offer broad-spectrum protection, ie, protect against UVA and UVB radiation, with a sun protection factor (SPF) 30 or greater.5 In a consumer survey of attitudes and habits toward sunscreens, almost half of the participants indicated that the SPF factor was the top factor in their buying decision -- which unfortunately misses the benefits of UVA protection. By contrast, having a "broad-spectrum sunscreen" was only the fifth-highest factor, and garnered support from only one-third of consumers,6 suggesting that consumer education on sun protection is still needed.

Skin damage from UV radiation can take many different shapes and forms, such as erythema, photoaging, DNA damage, and carcinogenesis, among others.7 In fact, UV radiation is classified as a Group I carcinogen (in the same category as arsenic and asbestos) by the World Health Organization.8 An exposure of the skin to UV radiation can increase inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1alpha.9 UVB irradiation can also lead to the formation of thymine dimers,10 which may ultimately lead to skin cancer, in the absence of repair.11 Sub-lethal doses of UV radiation decrease cell proliferation -- likely to allow cellular systems to check for damage incurred and correct mutations.12