Pilot Comparative Study of the Topical Action of a Novel, Crosslinked Resilient Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in a Dynamic, Three-Dimensional Human Explant Model
April 2016 | Volume 15 | Issue 4 | Original Article | 434 | Copyright © April 2016
Hema Sundaram MD,a Nicolas Mackiewicz PhD,b Emeline Burton MSc,b Laurent Peno-Mazzarino BSc,c Elian Lati PhD,c and StÃ©phane Meunier PhDb
aDermatology, Cosmetic & Laser Surgery, Rockville, MD
bTeoxane SA, R&D Department, Geneva, Switzerland
cLaboratoire BIO-EC, Longjumeau, France
METHODS: Standardized doses of each HA product were applied daily for 9 days to human skin explant surfaces. Untreated explants served as controls. Water content of the stratum corneum and entire epidermis was analyzed by Raman spectroscopy. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured to assess skin barrier function. Explant morphology and microrelief were evaluated by optical and scanning electron microscopy.
RESULTS: Crosslinked RHA achieved a significant increase in epidermal water content (7.6%) over the control. Spectral cartography confirmed a higher epidermal water content with RHA than with HMW HA or LMW HA. TEWL was reduced by 27.8% with RHA, and by 15.6% with HMW HA, but increased by 55.5% with LMW HA. Cutaneous microrelief improved with RHA. Corneocyte cohesion improved with RHA and HMW HA.
CONCLUSIONS: This comparative, multimodal study demonstrated greater benefits of topical crosslinked RHA over linear HMW HA or LMW HA in reducing TEWL, retaining and redistributing water within the epidermis, maintaining skin integrity, and improving skin barrier structure and function. RHA was a more efficacious humectant than LMW HA, and a more efficacious occlusive moisturizer than HMW HA. These integrative epidermal repair activities are of significant value for addressing primary deficits of aging skin, improving tolerance to retinoids and other topical agents, and optimizing procedural outcomes. A combination of topical and injectable HA provides an elegant model of synergistic, multi-level skin restoration.
J Drugs Dermatol. 2016;15(4):434-441.