A Multi-Component Reaction Peptide Augmenting the Anti-Aging Benefits of Non-Ablative Laser Procedure

February 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 2 | 188 | Copyright © February 2025


Published online January 31, 2025

doi:10.36849/JDD.8066R1

Kun Mark Qian MDa, Michael Kaminer MDb, I-Chien Liao PhDa, Janet Wangari-Olivero PhDa, Jyotsna Paturi PhDa, Ying Chen PhDa, Patricia Brieva PhDa, Rabije Cekovic MSa, Charbel Bouez PhDa, Qian Zheng MD PhDa

aL'Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ
bSkincare Physicians, Chestnut Hill, MA

Abstract
Background: Laser resurfacing is one of the most popular aesthetic procedures that address a wide range of skin conditions and overall skin rejuvenation. To reduce downtime and improve the clinical efficacy of the procedures, it is important to design post-procedure care routines to complement them. Towards fulfilling that consumer need, a peptide synthesized from multi-component reaction (MCP) has been developed.
Aims: The objective of this study is to investigate the functionalities of MCP as a regenerative active that enhances the healing kinetics and anti-aging performance following non-ablative fractional laser resurfacing procedures.
Methods: To fulfill the objective, a single-center, split-face design, double-blinded, randomized clinical study was conducted. Study participants received a full face non-ablative fractional laser procedure followed by treatment with two topical products, MCP formula or Aquaphor Healing Ointment®or AHO (Beiersdorf Inc, Wilton, CT) as a standard of care topical agent. Both products were applied immediately after the laser procedure and continued two times daily for 28 days. Clinical evaluation and expert grading of healing and aging, instrument measurement of skin barrier function, optical coherence tomography and standardized digital imaging were performed.
Results: Clinical evaluation results showed that the MCP formula promoted post-procedure skin healing at a comparable level as Aquaphor Healing Ointment®. However, the MCP formula demonstrated faster kinetics and enhanced level of improvement in multiple anti-aging parameters when compared with the benchmark control. Results from this clinical study demonstrate that the use of MCP formula post non-ablative fractional laser treatment is efficacious in promoting skin healing and enhancing the anti-aging benefits provided by the procedure.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24(2):188-195. doi:10.36849/JDD.8066R1

INTRODUCTION

Laser resurfacing has been the gold standard for the rejuvenation of photodamaged skin over the past four decades.1-4 Ablative laser procedures can efficiently address signs of aging by vaporizing the epidermis and upper part of the dermis in order to trigger healing associated with de novo collagen and elastin formation.2,3 Although ablative laser resurfacing has strong skin rejuvenation effects, the procedure has a prolonged healing process and increased risk of scarring and pigmentary issues.5-7 In contrast, non-ablative lasers selectively target water in the deeper layers and stimulate collagen production and dermal remodeling without destroying the epidermis, thus allowing for a faster healing process and less downtime.4,8 Fractional photothermolysis results in small cylindrical columns of thermal damage, "microthermal zones" (MTZs) to that permit rapid wound healing.2,4 Fractional lasers with ablative and non-ablative capabilities have created options for participants seeking to balance desired laser outcomes with associated risks.2-4

Nonetheless, post-procedure care is crucial to reduce downtime and maximize the benefits of laser procedures. Current post-procedure routines often involve the use of silicon or petrolatum-based formulations to reduce post-procedure erythema, pruritus, and pain.5-7 One standard post-procedure care product is Aquaphor Healing Ointment® (AHO) (Beiersdorf, Stamford, CT), a skin protectant ointment for the treatment of damaged skin and minor wounds.9 Formulations that promote the healing process and minimize post-procedure irritation would be beneficial for participants undergoing laser resurfacing procedures. In addition, active ingredients with skin regeneration effects have been postulated to enhance the anti-aging efficacy of the procedure.10-14 Therefore, the ideal post-procedure care would combine topical regenerative actives with formulations promoting healing so participants can enjoy reduced downtime and enhanced skin rejuvenation.

Peptides with anti-aging properties as active ingredients have been a growing trend in the cosmetic industry.15,16 Peptides are