INDIVIDUAL ARTICLE: A Scientific Approach to Defining, Evaluating, and Treating Pre-Aging With a Cosmetic Regimen Containing a Novel Cosmetic Peptide, Acetyl Dipeptide-31 Amide (AP31)
May 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 5 | 51181s4 | Copyright © May 2025
Published online April 30, 2025
Patricia Farris MDa, Cheri Frey MDb, Ramine Parsa PhDc, Dara Miller c, Thomas Shyr BSc, Wen-Hwa Li MS MBAc
aTulane University School of Medicine, New Orleans, LA
bHoward University Department of Dermatology, Washington, DC
cKenvue Brands LLC, Summit, NJ
Abstract
Background: Patients experiencing signs of pre-aging in their 20s and early 30s desire solutions including topical skincare and cosmetic procedures to help preserve skin quality and function.
Methods: A series of studies was conducted to define, evaluate, and treat pre-aging skin. A total of 180 subjects were assessed to identify clinical features of pre-aging across all Fitzpatrick Skin Types (FSTs). In vitro studies compared the response of young and old dermal fibroblasts to ultraviolet A (UVA) exposure and retinoid treatment and evaluated the beneficial effects of acetyl dipeptide-31 amide, for pre-aging treatment. A 12-week clinical study of 46 patients (mild to moderate photoaging) was conducted to assess the efficacy and tolerability of a skincare regimen to treat pre-aging. Skin glycation index was assessed via UV-fluorescence and cross-polarized images.
Results: Clinical evaluation revealed that the earliest signs of skin aging were consistent across FSTs and included uneven skin tone, fine lines, and roughness. Aging turning points were seen in the mid-twenties in lighter FSTs and mid-thirties in darker FSTs. A reduction in elasticity began in the 20s and collagen content decreased progressively with age. Younger dermal fibroblasts produced more ROS after UVA exposure but were also more responsive to retinoids. Acetyl dipeptide-31 amide demonstrated anti-inflammatory and extracellular matrix (eg, collagen, elastin, etc) building effects. Clinical testing revealed an AM/PM regimen containing acetyl dipeptide-31 amide, sunscreen, and bakuchiol significantly improved early signs of pre-aging and reduced skin glycation index.
Conclusion: These data support the need for and benefit of early intervention to protect and preserve youthful skin.
J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24:5(Suppl 2):s4-14.
INTRODUCTION
Pre-aging is a relatively new term used to describe the early, self-perceived signs of skin aging that occur in the 20s and early 30s.1 These early changes include dullness, loss of radiance, uneven skin tone, roughness, loss of firmness, dark circles, and fine lines. This young demographic, comprising both Millennials and Generation Z (Gen Z), is heavily influenced by social media, which provides them with a constant stream of information on cosmetic procedures, skincare trends, and ideals for flawless skin. Studies have demonstrated that greater social media use is associated with a heightened desire for cosmetic enhancements.2 Gen Z, deemed "digital natives," spends more hours on social media as compared to other generations.3 Therefore it is not surprising that young adults make up one of the fastest-growing markets for injectables like neurotoxins and hyaluronic acid fillers and are a major buying group for skincare.4,5 According to a 2022 survey of facial plastic surgeons, 75% reported an increased demand for cosmetic procedures in patients younger than 30.6 However, recently there has been a shift in focus, with Gen Z desiring more preventative interventions as opposed to correction and cosmetic enhancement.7 Prejuvenation, a term coined by dermatologist Dr. Kenneth Arndt in 2013, describes the concept that early intervention can slow or prevent the signs of aging, mitigating the need for reju
