INDIVIDUAL ARTICLE: A Clinical Evaluation of Scalp Barrier Function, Ceramide Levels, and Microbiome in Diverse Dandruff Patients

March 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 3 | 32731s3 | Copyright © March 2025


Published online February 28, 2025

Ariana Bitton MSa, Jolanta Idkowiak-Baldys PhDb, Amina Bouslimani PhDb, Eddy Hsi Chun Wang PhDb, Jyotsna Paturi PhDb, Ying Chen PhDb, Cecile Clavaud PhDc, Nada Baalbaki PhDa

aCeraVe, L'Oréal USA, New York, NY
bL'Oréal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ
cL'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-sous-bois, France

Abstract
Dandruff is a common chronic scalp condition that affects approximately half the population irrespective of their origin. Dandruff scalps are characterized by flaking skin, pruritus, and minimal visible scalp inflammation. At the biological level, dandruff scalp presents a disruption of the barrier function supported by lower levels of ceramides in the stratum corneum and typically accompanied by altered microbiome diversity, including a higher abundance of Malassezia yeasts and exacerbated sebum peroxidation. This study evaluated the relationship between skin barrier integrity in association with epidermal ceramide profile, microbiome imbalance, and inflammatory markers in pathophysiology of dandruff in an ethnically diverse panel. Our results confirm a significant increase in TEWL and decrease in hydration along with an increase in erythema, dryness, flakiness, and itchiness in patients with dandruff vs normal scalps; and an elevation of IL1RA:IL1α ratio dependent on the severity of the dandruff, supporting the inflammatory association with dandruff. For the first time, a study shows that dandruff scalps have a significantly higher amount of short-chain ceramides and a significantly lower proportion of long-chain ceramides consistent with lower conformational ordering and, thus explaining a higher permeability of the skin contributing to barrier dysfunction. In addition, reduced phytosphingosine and dihydrosphingosine based ceramides (NP, AP, NDS) were also observed, supporting a weakened scalp barrier. In addition to an expected increase in Malassezia, especially Malassezia restricta, in dandruff scalp, an increase in Staphylococcus aureus and decrease in Malassezia globosa was also observed as compared to healthy scalp in the population analyzed.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24:3(Suppl 1):s3-14.

INTRODUCTION

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) and dandruff are of a continuous spectrum of the same disease that affects the seborrheic areas of the body, with dandruff being milder and specifically localized to the scalp. It is characterized by a flaky, pruritic scalp and affects up to half the world's population post-puberty.1,2 Compared with dandruff, SD can affect the scalp as well as other seborrheic areas and is more severe when pruritus, flaking, scaling, and skin inflammation are involved. Environmental and host factors may alter the sebaceous gland activity, sebum composition, epidermal barrier function, and scalp microbiome balance. Various environmental (eg, pollution; stress) and intrinsic (eg, puberty; individual susceptibility) factors may affect the sebaceous gland activity and thus the sebum composition, scalp surface microbiome, and skin barrier function. Interactions between these factors, all contribute to the pathogenesis of SD and dandruff.3

Although the exact pathophysiology of dandruff is still not completely decoded, current theories highlight the role of the microbiome on the skin surface in the pathogenesis. Several scalp microbiome studies from different populations have revealed the association of dandruff with bacterial and fungal dysbiosis.4,5 Another study comparing the major bacterial-fungal populations colonizing dandruff scalps in China and France suggests that targeting one particular Malassezia species by antifungals instead of using broad-spectrum antifungals and rebalancing the dandruff scalp microbiota could be a common approach to improve dandruff condition.6,7 Overall scalp microbiome composition significantly differed between normal and dandruff groups linked with hyperproliferation of lipophilic yeasts of the genus Malassezia8 and Staphylococcus spp. Additional microbial markers such as Aspergillus and Pseudomonas have also been proposed.5,9