INDIVIDUAL ARTICLE: Breaking Barriers: Advancing Cosmeceuticals and Integrated Skincare for Skin of Color

April 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 4 | 41491s5 | Copyright © April 2025


Published online March 31, 2025

Jared Jagdeo MD MS

SUNY Downstate Health Sciences University, Brooklyn, NY

Abstract
Common signs of skin aging include wrinkles, fine lines, and pigmentary disorders. Patients with skin of color present with unique dermatologic challenges due to differences in how skin conditions manifest on darker skin tones, such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. As a result, dermatologists and aestheticians need to be aware of these concerns and how to adequately address them. Many prescription and over-the-counter topical medications are now available to treat patients’ dermatologic conditions. By combining such treatments with in-office physical therapies, an integrated approach to patient skincare is now possible. Therefore, clinicians should be aware of available comprehensive skincare approaches that can be tailored to the individual aesthetic concerns and skin health needs of their patients.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24:4(Suppl 1):s5-10.
Common Conditions in Skin of Color
Wrinkles, sagging, and pigmentation issues--inevitable skin changes indicative of the aging process--can occur in patients of any skin tone. However, hyperpigmentation skin conditions, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma, are particularly concerning for patients with skin of color (SOC) due to the appearance of dark spots and patches on the skin.1,2 Photoaging is another common cause of hyperpigmentation in individuals with SOC. While certain signs of aging may be delayed by 10 to 20 years in Black patients compared with those with lighter skin, alterations in skin quality--such as wrinkles/deep expression lines, periorbital and perioral subcutaneous volume loss, and skin laxity--become more noticeable in SOC as patients age.3-6

Factors Influencing the Aging of Skin
Factors that influence the aging of skin include both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic factors that contribute to aging skin include biological and physiological differences between dark and light skin.1,2 For example, the stratum corneum in Black skin appears to have a greater degree of layering that contributes to its more compact and cohesive nature.4,6-8 Accordingly, increased stratum corneum compactness may lessen skin fragility and susceptibility to sun damage, consistent with the finding that 5 times more ultraviolet (UV) light reaches the upper dermis in White skin compared with SOC.9 As a result, this may contribute to the delay in visible signs of skin aging commonly seen in Black individuals compared with those with lighter skin. Other intrinsic factors include genetics, cellular metabolism, and hormonal changes.10

Extrinsic factors that influence the aging process of the skin include exposure to blue light, UV light, environmental pollutants, smoking, and poor nutrition and physical activity, which can contribute to coarse wrinkles, loss of elasticity, laxity, and the development of a rough-textured appearance.11-13 Other external factors include the negative effects of stress on skin aging, and sleep deprivation.10,11

Aging Skin: Prevention
Modifying factors contributing to the aging process is critical for patients as this can significantly change self-perception and impact psychosocial wellness. Individuals who look younger may feel younger and, as a result, feel healthier overall.5,11 This supports the observation that aged skin is associated with one’s nutritional status and poorer health and disease, serving as an aesthetic measure reflecting a person's general health and vitality.5