Exosomes in Cosmetic Dermatology: A Review of Benefits and Challenges

January 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 1 | 12 | Copyright © January 2025


Published online December 13, 2024

doi:10.36849/JDD.8872

Diala Haykal MDa, Saranya Wyles MD PhDb, Lilit Garibyan MD PhDc,d, Hugues Cartier MDe, Michael Gold MD PhDf

aCentre Médical Laser Palaiseau, Palaiseau, France
bMayo Clinic Department of Dermatology, Rochester, MN
cWellman for Photomedicine, Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston, MA
dDepartment of Dermatology, Harvard Medical School, Boston, MA
eCentre Médical Saint Jean, Arras, France
fGold Skin Care Center, Tennessee Clinical Research Center, Nashville, TN

Abstract
Background: Exosomes are small extracellular vesicles (30-150 nm in size) that play a critical role in cellular communication, transporting proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids between cells. This literature review focuses on evaluating the potential benefits and limitations of exosomes in enhancing skin health and aesthetics through indications such as skin rejuvenation, hair restoration, and pigmentation disorders.
Methods: A thorough literature search was conducted on PubMed using specific MeSH, including "exosomes," "aesthetics," "cosmetic dermatology," "skin rejuvenation," "hair growth," and "wrinkle reduction." The search was limited to free-access studies published in various countries within the last ten years (2014-2024). As a result, a total of 56 relevant references were identified and reviewed to support the discussion.
Results: There are currently no US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved exosomes. This review highlights exosomes' potential in skin rejuvenation through extracellular matrix production and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) inhibition, as well as in hair restoration by stimulating follicle cell activity and modulating inflammation. Despite these benefits, challenges remain, including inconsistent isolation methods, source variability, and the need for clinical trials to confirm long-term safety and efficacy. The regulatory landscape is evolving, and further research is essential to meet standards before exosomes can be broadly adopted in cosmetic dermatology.
Conclusion: While exosomes hold significant potential for non-invasive cosmetic dermatology, there are challenges that need to be addressed, including the standardization of exosome isolation and characterization, the establishment of safety profiles, and the conduct of extensive clinical trials.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24(1):12-18. doi:10.36849/JDD.8872

INTRODUCTION

Exosomes, a specific subtype of extracellular vesicles (EVs) ranging from 30 to 150 nanometers, have emerged as powerful tools in intercellular communication, transporting proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids between cells.1 Their potential applications in the field of aesthetics and cosmetic dermatology have garnered significant attention due to their ability to influence a variety of cellular processes, including skin rejuvenation and hair restoration. These nanoscale vesicles, formed within the endosomal system of cells, play a critical role in paracrine signaling by effectively delivering bioactive molecules to target cells and modulating their function. Exosomes are naturally produced by a wide variety of cell types, each contributing unique bioactive molecules to these vesicles. Their sources include platelets, mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), immune cells, epithelial cells, and even plant cells, termed plant-derived extracellular nanoparticles (PDENs), each of which imparts distinct properties to the exosomes.2-5 Recent research has highlighted the utility of exosomes, especially as a cell-free alternative to traditional regenerative therapies. This has led to a surge in studies exploring their efficacy in clinical and preclinical settings, particularly in plastic and reconstructive surgery, wound healing, and skin care.6,7 Despite the growing interest and promising early results, the use of exosomes remains under stringent regulatory scrutiny. In the US, for instance, the FDA has not yet approved any exosome-based products for clinical use, largely due to concerns about their safety, purity, and batch-to-batch consistency.8 Similarly, in Europe, strict regulations limit the use of human-derived exosomes, pushing researchers to explore plant-