Efficacy and Tolerability of a Cream in Aging Skin

May 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 5 | 524 | Copyright © May 2025


Published online April 28, 2025

doi:10.36849/JDD.9025

Alan Widgerow MBBCh MMeda, Mathieu Grivet-Seyve PhDb, Sarah Anjuwon MSb, Christine Emesiani PharmDc, Matthew Meckfessel PhDc

aGalderma R&D, Carlsbad, CA
bGalderma R&D, LLC, Dallas, TX
cGalderma Laboratories LLP, Dallas, TX

Abstract
Background: The clinical presentation of photodamaged and aged skin includes fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation changes, which are related to the amount of water in the epidermis. Use of moisturizing products can help improve signs of aging.
Methods: Twelve (12) week single-center study in participants 40 to 75 years old with sensitive skin and signs/symptoms of photodamage and skin aging (defined as mild-to-moderate wrinkles, overall photodamage, and lack of skin tone evenness on the neck and outer forearms). Participants applied a cream twice per day to the body (neck, legs, arms, and hands). Efficacy was assessed by clinical grading and digital imaging (in a subgroup of 19 participants) and standard safety assessments were performed.
Results: A total of 41 participants participated. All clinical grading parameters showed significant improvements, including crepiness (visual), skin texture/smoothness (tactile), and overall quality/appearance. In addition, density/thickness improved on both neck and limbs throughout the study. Pinch recoil measurements also improved from baseline to day 84. Tolerability assessments showed improvement of dryness and scaling on limbs vs baseline and no measurable change in any other tolerability parameters throughout the study. In addition, participants reported a positive impression of the cream on a self-assessment questionnaire.
Conclusions: The tested cream, which incorporates the ingredients mandelic acid and Centella asiatica, effectively improved participants' skin appearance in adults with sensitive skin and moderate signs of aging.

Citation: Widgerow A, Grivet-Seyve M, Anjuwon S, et al. Efficacy and tolerability of a cream in aging skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24(5):524-529. doi:10.36849/JDD.9025

INTRODUCTION

Aging skin frequently shows a decrease in skin firmness/density and may be associated with erythema or uneven skin tone.1 Often, aging skin is accompanied by dermatoporosis or thin, fragile skin.2,3 There is growing interest in cosmetic and aesthetic treatments that can improve and maintain the skin's appearance. However, such management can be challenging in the setting of sensitive skin since those with sensitive skin have a tendency toward stinging/burning, itching, and erythema.1

Recently, a cosmetic cream was formulated with mandelic acid and Centella asiatica. Microdosing these two well-known agents had surprisingly synergistic effects decreasing senescent cells and their inflammatory cytokines.4 Mandelic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid, is a potent exfoliating ingredient and an antimicrobial agent that has shown benefits for hyperpigmentation and acne and has anti-aging activity.5,6 It can also function as a preservative and contributes to optimizing the pH of the formulation.5 Centella asiatica (also known as gotu kola) is a medicinal herb that has been used for centuries in parts of Asia to improve wound healing and a variety of dermatologic conditions.7 In wound healing, the addition of C asiatica increases cellular proliferation and collagen synthesis and helps wounds epithelialize faster (and, in turn, heal faster).7-9 In skin diseases, the triterpenes present in C asiatica contribute to beneficial effects on eczema, psoriasis, acne, and atopic dermatitis (AD).10 In these settings, the above-mentioned effects may be beneficial as well as its antioxidant properties. Additionally, C asiatica has been shown to have antibacterial activity against P acnes11; in AD, C asiatica reduces hyperkeratosis and inflammatory cell infiltrate and has actions on several inflammatory pathways.12,13

Given the positive effects of these ingredients, this study was designed to test the efficacy and tolerability of the novel moisturizing cream containing mandelic acid and C asiatica under normal conditions in adults with sensitive skin and aging/photodamage after daily use for 12 weeks.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This was a 12-week single-center study in participants 40 to 75 years old with sensitive skin and signs/symptoms of photodamage and skin aging (defined as mild-to-moderate wrinkles, overall photodamage, and lack of skin tone evenness on the neck and outer forearms). Participants applied a cream (Galderma Laboratories, LP, Dallas, Texas) twice per day to the body (neck, legs, arms, and hands). The study was performed according to Good Clinical Practice and all participants provided written informed consent.