Effects of a Sheer 100% Mineral Sunscreen Moisturizer on Facial Photodamage Across Fitzpatrick Skin Types

July 2024 | Volume 23 | Issue 7 | 538 | Copyright © July 2024


Published online June 26, 2024

doi:10.36849/JDD.8082

Joel L. Cohen MD FAAD FACMSa,b, Morgann Young MSc, Tatiana Kononov MBAc, Alisar S. Zahr PhDc

aAboutSkin Dermatology, Greenwood Village, CO
bAboutSkin Research, Greenwood Village, CO
cRevision Skincare, Irving, TX

Abstract
Background: All skin tones need to be protected from the damaging effects of solar radiation. Although mineral sunscreens offer protection, they can have a thick, greasy feel and leave a white cast, particularly on darker skin tones. Tints offset white cast and provide visible light protection; however, patients may prefer a sheer option. Therefore, a multifunctional, sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer (MSM) with broad-spectrum SPF 50 was developed to have positive aesthetics and deliver anti-aging and skin health benefits to all skin tones. 
Methods: An IRB-approved, 12-week, open-label clinical study was conducted to investigate the efficacy and tolerability of the MSM. Thirty-nine (39) females aged 35 to 60 years with moderate-severe overall facial photodamage and representing all Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) were recruited. Participants applied the MSM to the face and neck in the morning and reapplied per US Food and Drug Administration requirements. Efficacy and tolerability grading, photography, ultrasound imaging, corneometer measurements, and questionnaires were completed at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12. 
Results: Statistically significant progressive improvements were demonstrated from baseline to week 12. At week 12, 23.4% and 26.5% mean improvements in overall photodamage were seen for FST I-III and FST IV-VI, respectively. Favorable tolerability was shown for both the face and neck. Photography corroborated clinical grading, and ultrasound imaging indicated a trend in skin density improvement. The MSM was well-perceived. 
Conclusion: The MSM is an efficacious and well-tolerated product for patients of all skin tones who desire a sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer with anti-aging and skin health benefits. 

J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):538-544.  doi:10.36849/JDD.8082

INTRODUCTION

Daily sunscreen usage is an important step to mitigate photodamage so that skin can age well and stay healthy. Photodamage results from exposure to solar radiation and clinically manifests as fine lines and wrinkles, skin tone unevenness, and loss of firmness and elasticity. Solar radiation is composed of 3 components: ultraviolet, visible, and infrared radiation. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes the production of free radicals, damages DNA, and changes the balance of harmful matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) cascades in the skin.1 In comparison, visible light can induce immediate erythema in lighter skin tones and long-term hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones.2 Lastly, infrared light (IFRL) increases MMPs that damage collagen and elastin.3

Various ingredients can be used to protect skin from solar radiation. Sunscreen actives -- either chemical or mineral (physical) -- target harmful ultraviolet rays. While both types of actives protect the skin by converting UV rays into heat within the skin, mineral actives also reflect rays off the skin. To address high energy visible light (HEVL) and IFRL, typically iron oxides and boron nitride are used, respectively.4 

Among certain consumers, mineral sunscreen actives are favored over chemical sunscreen actives due to less irritation and perceived safety concerns with mineral sunscreens over their chemical counterparts.5 Despite preferences for mineral sunscreens, these sunscreens can have major aesthetic drawbacks. A thick and greasy feel and a white cast after application are common issues that can hinder usage compliance, particularly for those with darker skin types. Furthermore, many consumers look for products that offer numerous benefits in one formulation.      

Therefore, a multi-functional, sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer (MSM) with broad-spectrum SPF 50 was formulated to meet these consumer preferences. The sunscreen actives
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