Acetyl Dipeptide-31 Amide: A Novel Cosmetic Anti-Inflammatory Peptide That Demonstrates Anti-Aging, Firming, and Lifting Benefits

January 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 1 | 23 | Copyright © January 2025


Published online December 31, 2024

doi:10.36849/JDD.8786

Brenda L. Edison BAa, Ramine Parsa PhDa, Marisa Dufort MSa, Neena K. Tierney PhDa, Barbara A. Green RPh MSa, Patricia K. Farris MDb

aKenvue Brands LLC, Summit, NJ
bTulane University School of Medicine, Department of Dermatology, New Orleans, LA

Abstract
Background: There is continuous demand for safe, effective cosmetic ingredients to treat the signs of aging skin, including fine lines, wrinkles, brown spots, discoloration, laxity, and sagging. While there are a plethora of cosmeceutical peptides, few combine anti-aging and anti-inflammatory benefits with small size.
Methods: Preclinical and clinical studies evaluated the anti-inflammatory properties, anti-aging benefits, and tolerability of acetyl dipeptide-31 amide (AP31), a novel, small, anti-aging micropeptide, to understand its impact as a multifaceted, cosmetic, anti-aging, and anti-inflammaging ingredient.
Results: In vitro, AP31 statistically significantly reduced the release of inflammatory mediators interleukin (IL)-4, IL-6, IL-8, IL-17, and tumor necrosis factor alpha, and statistically significantly increased levels of dermal extracellular matrix components, ie, procollagen, elastin, decorin, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid (all P<0.05 vs vehicle controls). Statistically significant increases in extracellular matrix biomarker levels were also seen in AP31-treated human skin explants (8 days). In human skin equivalents, AP31 favorably influenced cellular pathways known to contribute to skin aging. AP31 positively impacted genes involved in barrier function, skin hydration, skin plumping, and epidermal metabolism. Clinical evaluations of a finished product over 16 weeks demonstrated improvements in jawline sagging, global lift, nasolabial fold appearance, fine lines and wrinkles, smoothness, skin tone, and hyperpigmentation. Subject self-assessment of efficacy was consistent with the clinical grading. No statistically significant changes from baseline in tolerability assessments of edema, erythema, dryness, burning, stinging, itching, or tightness were reported.
Conclusions: AP31 is a novel, multifunctional, non-irritating, cosmeceutical micropeptide that improves clinical signs of aging, lifts and contours facial skin, and reduces inflammation markers.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24(1):23-33. doi:10.36849/JDD.8786

INTRODUCTION

There is continuous demand for safe and effective cosmetic ingredients to treat signs of aging skin, such as fine lines and wrinkles, brown spots, discoloration, laxity, and sagging.1 Multifunctional cosmetic ingredients such as retinol, hydroxy acids, and niacinamide are effective in improving fine lines/wrinkles and in lightening hyperpigmentation but fail to address the changes in facial contour that are a main concern in many individuals.2-4

Anti-aging products offering a single mechanism of action may not effectively address some of the most impactful factors contributing to skin aging. These include targeting chronic, low-level inflammation associated with aging, referred to as inflammaging, and boosting normal dermal biosynthesis to maintain a more youthful appearance and overall skin health.5-8 The facial shape's natural evolution from youth to older appearance involves the following sequential changes: round to oval, then triangular to square, and eventually an inverted triangle as the face becomes increasingly bottom-heavy with age.9 These changes in contour occur as a result of skin morphologic response to inflammaging, volume loss in the dermis and below,10 and gravity. Although dermal fillers used for volumetric rejuvenation and surgical lifting procedures are mainstays of treatment for improving facial contour,9 there is a need for less invasive topical options.

Because they are non-irritating, safe, and versatile, peptides represent a valuable, favored class of cosmeceutical ingredients11,12 that can be divided into 4 categories: carrier peptides for biologically important molecules, signal peptides that modulate synthesis of extracellular matrix (ECM) components such as collagen and elastin, enzyme-inhibitor peptide, and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides with a