INDIVIDUAL ARTICLE: Tailored Touch: Test Your Knowledge on Pre-, Intra-, and Postprocedure Skincare—Based on a Medscape Education Online Activity

March 2026 | Volume 25 | Issue 3 | 378501 | Copyright © March 2026


Published online February 28, 2026

Andrew F. Alexis MD MPH

Weill Cornell Medicine, New York, NY

Abstract
Variations in the prevalence, clinical presentation, and approach to treatment of aesthetic dermatologic conditions are observed in patient populations with skin of color (SOC). A heightened predisposition to post-inflammatory pigment alteration and scarring following dermatologic procedures are key considerations. Optimal clinical outcomes can be achieved with rigorous skin type assessment (including phototype, as well as dyspigmentation and scarring potential); judicious selection of low-risk therapeutic modalities, including superficial chemical peels and nonablative laser systems; and implementation of pretreatment protocols and comprehensive broad-spectrum photoprotection strategies. Recommended postprocedural management includes targeted topical brightening agents alongside sustained photoprotection measures to mitigate adverse pigmentary sequelae. Successful aesthetic outcomes in SOC populations require individualized treatment algorithms that optimize therapeutic efficacy while prioritizing patient safety profiles. Contemporary best practices emphasize integrated skincare approaches that synergistically combine aesthetic procedures with targeted cosmeceutical regimens, complemented by comprehensive patient education on photoprotection and recommended skin care practices. These approaches effectively minimize pigmentary complications while maximizing clinical outcomes. Consideration of cultural factors and shared decision-making approaches are recommended for achieving high patient satisfaction and optimal treatment outcomes in this growing patient population.

 

CASE 1

Amanda is a 35-year-old, Black woman currently working as a law firm secretary. She denies being a smoker and does not have any known health conditions. After an acne flare-up, her dermatologist recommended a nightly retinoid-based facial cream (triple combination topical prescription, containing adapalene, clindamycin, and benzoyl peroxide), which helped resolve the issue. However, she developed significant dark spots on her forehead and cheeks, making her self-conscious and anxious, especially when interacting with clients at work. During a follow-up, her dermatologist noted discrete hyperpigmented macules on her cheeks and forehead, consistent with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Amanda’s skin type is documented as Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) IV, and she reports no other known conditions or medical concerns related to her skin.

Which of the following physiologic/biologic features of skin of color would increase Amanda’s risk for developing hyperpigmentation conditions?
  • Clustered pattern of melanocyte distribution
  • Melanocyte reactivity
  • High levels of ceramide
  • Loosely packed stratum corneum layers
The correct answer is melanocyte reactivity.

Melanocyte reactivity refers to the responsiveness of melanocytes (melanin-producing cells) to stimuli, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, inflammation, and hormonal changes. Increased reactivity can lead to ABSTRACToverproduction of melanin, causing hyperpigmentation conditions like melasma or PIH. In individuals with darker skin types, heightened melanocyte reactivity significantly raises the risk of these conditions, making it a critical factor in assessing skin health, determining susceptibility to pigmentation disorders, and guiding treatment selection.

DISCUSSION

How can we help patients with skin of color (SOC) achieve radiant and healthier-looking skin? This begins with understanding the ethnic and racial differences in skin, which stem from unique physiologic and structural characteristics.

The distribution of melanosomes within melanocytes and keratinocytes varies across the spectrum of skin pigmentation. In individuals with darkly pigmented skin, melanosomes are larger and dispersed individually, whereas in lightly pigmented skin, they are smaller and clustered together.1,2 This biologic trait contributes to the observed skin color. Although many physiologic properties are similar across racial and ethnic groups, certain differences have been consistently noted. For example, 2 comparative studies found lower ceramide content in Black healthy subjects compared to White or Asian subjects.3-5

Although many physiologic properties are similar across racial and ethnic groups, specific differences have been reported. For example, 2 comparative studies found lower ceramide content in Black healthy subjects compared to White or Asian subjects.3-5 Other studies have demonstrated that the overall thickness of the stratum corneum in Black