Photoprotection Efficacy of Sun Protection Factor and Iron Oxide Formulations in Diverse Skin With Melasma and Photodamage

July 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 7 | 662 | Copyright © July 2025


Published online July 2, 2025

doi:10.36849/JDD.9240

Pearl E. Grimes MDa, Jyotsna Paturi PhDb, Ying Chen PhDb, Janet Wangari-Olivero PhDb, Hawasatu Dumbuya PhDb, Xi Yan PhDb, Stephen Lynch PhDb, Qian Zheng MD PhDb

aThe Vitiligo & Pigmentation Institute of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
bL'Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ

Abstract
Visible light (400-700nm) comprises 45% of the sunlight spectrum and can induce both immediate and persistent skin darkening, as well as worsen dyschromia, especially in the skin of color population. In a recent mini-zone study, we demonstrated that iron oxide (FeO)-containing formulations could protect skin from visible light-induced pigmentation in Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) IV individuals, while ultraviolet (UV) protection sunscreen SPF 50+ (sun protection factor) could not. To assess the benefit of adding FeO-containing foundation into real-life daily sun care routine in improving the appearance of photodamage and melasma, we evaluated the efficacy of two sun protection regimens (SPF50 alone and SPF50+FeO) in healthy women of FST III to VI for 12 weeks. Clinical evaluation and colorimetric measurement showed that both regimens significantly improved skin quality and overall appearance over 12 weeks compared to baseline. At week 4, the photodamage subgroup using SPF50+FeO showed early improvement over baseline in skin roughness (visual and tactile). The melasma subgroup using SPF50+FeO showed early improvement in overall healthy appearance.

At week 12, although both groups showed improvement in colorimetric measurements (L*), the response was different: 36% of melasma participants in the SPF50+FeO group showed superior improvement in their skin radiance (L*) vs 0% in the SPF50 group. A self-assessment questionnaire revealed that SPF50+FeO enhanced the quality of life in participants with melasma. This study demonstrated the importance of including visible light protection into a daily sun care routine, especially for melasma: masking and improving existing conditions indoors and outdoors at the same time.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24(7):662-667. doi:10.36849/JDD.9240

INTRODUCTION

Globally, particularly in the United States (US), the skin of color population has been growing significantly, which requires tailored dermatological attention strategies due to the unique physiological conditions and clinical manifestations. Concerning photoaging, compared with Fitzpatrick skin types FST I, II and III, women of color with FST IV and above exhibit fewer visible signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines. However, due to their melanin-rich skin, they are more susceptible to photo-mediated dyspigmentation, including photodamage and melasma, which may result in uneven skin tone, ashy skin, and blotchiness.1 Those skin conditions could potentially impact the psychological state and quality of life of the individual.2 Previously, studies on the cutaneous impact of sun damage have focused on ultraviolet B radiation (UVB) and ultraviolet A radiation (UVA)-mediated effects on lighter FST skin.3 Sunscreens have been demonstrated as effective photoprotection strategies to reduce harmful effects of UV radiation.3 The sun protection strategy against UVA and UVB was also found to be impactful in the skin of color population. In a one-year real-life multicenter study, we have shown that in Hispanic women with high FST (IV and V), applying sunscreen every day could significantly improve their skin hyperpigmentation and aging signs.4

In the past decade, the sun protection strategy has extended into the visible light (VL) irradiation between 400 and 700 nm, which makes up 45% of sunlight spectrum, and has been recently demonstrated to induce both immediate and persistent pigment darkening, contributing to dyschromia in participants with Fitzpatrick skin phototype III and above.4-6 VL also darkens skin, additionally, when combined with long wavelength UVA.7 This overproduced pigmentation was induced by the Opsin3 receptor, which can sense visible sunlight and therefore activate the downstream melanogenesis.8 In the skin of color (SOC) population, the effect was more prominent and long-lasting.9 Those findings have created an urgent need to find full-spectrum photoprotection strategies beyond UV, particularly in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes III and higher.10

Iron oxides (FeO) as a topical ingredient have been proven to contribute to VL protection. Under real-life conditions, daily application of a tinted sunscreen was demonstrated to reduce the appearance of cutaneous hyperchromia after 60 days.11