The Impact of an AGE-Inhibiting Moisturizer on Procedure Effectiveness

September 2025 | Volume 24 | Issue 9 | 9201 | Copyright © September 2025


Published online August 18, 2025

doi:10.36849/JDD.9201

Zoe Diana Draelos MDa, Patricia Brieva PhDb, Hina Choudhary PharmDb, Stacy White PhDb

aDermatology Consulting Services, PLLC, NC
bSkinCeuticals, New York, NY

Abstract

The accumulation of endogenous advanced glycation end products (AGEs) has been shown to degrade the integrity of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, resulting in signs of aging. Resurfacing procedures are a first-line treatment option. Post-procedure skin care is integral in achieving optimal results with minimal downtime. This single-site, randomized, split-face, double-blind, controlled study investigated the efficacy and tolerance of an AGE inhibitory moisturizer on facial appearance on a diverse panel of 42 female subjects, including Fitzpatrick skin types I through VI, following either radiofrequency microneedling or a glycolic acid peel after twice daily application for 10 weeks. Investigator clinical efficacy was assessed using the modified Griffiths scale at baseline and weeks 1, 2, 4, and 8. Before and after images were captured with VISIA Imaging (Canfield Scientific) at the same timepoints as efficacy assessments. Objective and subjective tolerance assessments were conducted during the study. At pre-treatment, participants applied either the AGE inhibitory moisturizer or the bland moisturizer to one-half of the face in conjunction with cleanser and sunscreen for 14 days. At baseline, based on Fitzpatrick skin type, participants received either a single session of full-face ultrasound radiofrequency microneedling (RFMN) or a glycolic acid peel. For participants with Fitzpatrick skin type III-VI who were treated with a glycolic acid peel, the AGE inhibitory moisturizer-treated side of the face compared to the control-treated side of the face resulted in a greater statistically significant improvement at week 8 in 5 attributes: skin clarity, evenness of skin tone, fine lines, elasticity, and overall appearance (all P<0.05). Furthermore, the following 10 attributes were statistically significantly improved compared to baseline (overall facial appearance, wrinkles, fine lines, elasticity, laxity, firmness, evenness, radiance, clarity, and hyperpigmentation). For participants with Fitzpatrick skin type I-II who were treated with RFMN, the AGE inhibitory moisturizer-treated side of the face resulted in a greater statistically significant improvement in laxity, clarity, fine lines, elasticity, and overall facial appearance at week 8 versus the control moisturizer-treated side of the face (all P<0.05). The AGE inhibitory moisturizer is an effective and well-tolerated option for women of all skin tones to improve the signs of aging following resurfacing procedures.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24(9): doi:10.36849/JDD.9201

INTRODUCTION

Skin aging is a progressive process that impacts all physiological functions that are important for homeostasis and is the sum of intrinsic (chronological) and extrinsic (photo-aging) aging.1,2

Characteristic clinical features of intrinsically aged skin are the loss of elasticity and the appearance of fine wrinkles, crepiness, and sallowness. This is borne out microscopically by epidermal and dermal atrophy, which diminishes the biomechanical properties of the skin.3

Glycation plays a prominent role in intrinsic skin aging and has been implicated in the progression of various diseases, including chronic diseases such as diabetes, Alzheimer's disease, etc.6 Because of its role in skin aging, glycation is a key anti-age strategy of great importance to cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical companies and is the subject of the present clinical study.

Glycation is a non-enzymatic reaction of a sugar, usually glucose, with lipids, proteins, or DNA. This process is known as the Maillard reaction.7 The electrophilic carbonyl group of the reducing sugar reacts with free amino groups in the amino acids of proteins to form an unstable Schiff base. Further reactions result in the formation of more stable Amadori products.

The principal protein in the dermis is collagen; thus, it is a main target for glycation. The glycation products collectively are called advanced glycation end-products (AGE) and are not degradable. Thus, they accumulate with time and modify the structural properties of collagen. AGEs in the dermis play a role in intrinsically aged skin by disrupting the normal function of the dermis, which results in loss of elasticity and firmness and causes crepiness and sallowness.8 The aforementioned signs of aging are most prevalent among Baby Boomers, currently those aged 61 to 79 years (born 1946-1964).9-11

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