Cosmetic Benefits of Natural Ingredients: Mushrooms, Feverfew, Tea, and Wheat Complex
September 2013 | Volume 12 | Issue 9 | Supplement Individual Articles | 133 | Copyright © September 2013
Whitney P. Bowe MD
SUNY Downstate College of Medicine, Brooklyn, NY
Natural ingredients are frequently used in an effort to address cosmetic concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, uneven tone, and texture. Many of these ingredients found in nature possess potent antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory properties. Some, such as mushroom extracts, are even capable of accelerating the skin turnover rate and repairing dermal molecular components that provide structure and elasticity to the skin. Others, such as green tea, provide photoprotection against ultraviolet-induced DNA damage. In this manuscript, the cosmetic benefits of mushrooms, feverfew, and tea are discussed in the context of their ability to improve the appearance of the skin. The healing effects that wheat complex can have on damaged hair are also addressed. J Drugs Dermatol.
The cosmetic patients who enter our practices
today do not appear to be the typical cosmetic patients we were seeing just a decade or two ago. The modern cosmetic
patient is younger, perhaps even in her twenties or thirties, and she puts as much focus on prevention as on correction.
She is also far more concerned about the source of her products, frequently requesting natural or organic alternatives
to prescription medications. She might even perceive products that are not natural as unsafe, and peruses the ingredient
list for chemicals and preservatives that she has read are “toxic” on the Internet.
Sales of products claiming to be “organic,” “natural,” or
“naturally derived” have soared in recent years. But what do these terms really mean? Certifying products as organic has
become a trend of late, but there are a number of worldwide organizations that have differing definitions of “organic.”
A common misconception among patients and consumers alike is that organic is better, but, in reality, organic is not
necessarily better. Naturally derived ingredients are not invariably organic, rather they contain plant-derived elements
that are actually improved upon in the laboratory setting.
One of the reasons why natural ingredients have gained such
popularity is their abundance of antioxidants. Oxidative stress is a major driving force behind aging. Free radicals are
highly reactive species, capable of damaging biomolecules such as lipids, proteins, and DNA, and they are continuously
formed during our normal metabolic processes. Their production is increased with exposure to environmental factors such as
sunlight and cigarette smoke. As a result, humans have evolved an antioxidant defense system to minimize the potential for
free radical damage. However, we need to keep replenishing our antioxidant stores, and natural ingredients are an excellent
source of these desirable antioxidants. Several natural ingredients that exhibit antioxidant and photoprotective effects on
the skin include, among others: shiitake mushrooms, vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol), feverfew parthenolide-free extract (PFE),
tea extracts (green and black), coffeeberry, grape seed extract, and licorice. In this article we will focus on shiitake
mushrooms, feverfew, and tea, and then shift gears and discuss the benefits of wheat for damaged hair.
Shiitake Mushroom Complex
Mushroom extracts, including shiitake mushroom extract, possess not only antioxidant properties but also anti-irritant properties. Therefore, the right combination of mushroom extracts could be the ideal ingredient in anti-aging skin formulations. Shiitake mushrooms and mannetake (reishi) mushrooms contain polysaccharides, triterpenes, proteins, lipids, phenols, and cerebrosides.1 These serve as anti-irritants and antioxidants, and stimulate the skin’s natural renewal process. Mushroom extract skin care applications include protection against photoaging and improved skin elasticity.2 Natural shiitake complex inhibits elastase activity. As we age, enzymes such as elastase diminish our elastin, compromising the integrity of the dermal layer. Natural shiitake complex has been shown to inhibit elastase in a dramatic fashion. The degree of elastase enzyme inhibition increases as the concentration of the shiitake complex is increased (Figure 1).3 Shiitake derivatives also display potent antioxidant activity, which is critical for anti-aging because oxidative stress and reactive oxygen species are major