Advances in Gentle Polymeric Cleansing Technologies

May 2026 | Volume 25 | Issue 5 | 465 | Copyright © May 2026


Published online April 30, 2026

Zoe Draelos MDa, Joshua Zeichner MDb, Dara Miller c, Wen-Hwa Li MS MBAc, Rabab Hussain PharmDc, Khea Wolff PhDc, Ramine Parsa PhDc, Neena K. Tierney PhDc

aDermatology Consulting Services, PLLC, High Point, NC
bDepartment of Dermatology, The Mount Sinai Hospital, New York, NY
cKenvue Brands LLC, Summit, NJ

Abstract
Modern skin cleansers have evolved from basic soaps to advanced cleansing formulations that also provide moisturization and skin barrier support. Surfactants work by emulsifying oils and reducing surface tension, but they may disrupt essential lipids in the skin, leading to barrier damage and sensitivity. Advances in surfactant technology have enabled the development of cleansers that combine efficacy with improved tolerability, foaming aesthetics, and reduced environmental impact. This review summarizes the evolution of modern mild skin cleansing technologies with a focus on polymeric cleansing technologies (PCTs) and the preclinical and clinical evidence of their efficacy and tolerability in sensitive skin. In vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated that hydrophobically modified polymers (HMPs) and sodium hydrolyzed potato starch dodecenylsuccinate (SHPSD; NATRASURF™ PS-111) reduce irritation potential and surfactant penetration into the skin relative to commercial mild cleansers, while providing effective cleansing performance with favorable tolerability. In a 4-week clinical study involving participants with sensitive skin, a combination of the PCTs HMP and SHPSD demonstrated good tolerability and improved aesthetic skin parameters without compromising cleansing efficacy. Properly formulated cleansers incorporating PCTs can provide superior tolerance, improved skin and aesthetic outcomes, and effective cleansing. The complementary properties of HMP and SHPSD enable flexible formulation strategies that optimize cleansing results in healthy and sensitive skin.

INTRODUCTION

The primary goal of a skin cleanser is to remove surface dirt, sweat, sebum, and contaminants without irritating or drying the skin. The key ingredients in cleansers include surfactants for cleansing, moisturizing agents (emollients) for counteracting dryness, preservatives, and fragrances.1 Surfactants solubilize hydrophobic material into the aqueous phase, enabling its removal from the skin surface. Cleansers help maintain hygiene but may damage the skin barrier, worsening sensitive skin conditions,2 because surfactants cannot distinguish between unwanted lipophilic debris and the essential intercellular lipids protecting the skin.

A wide range of skin cleansers exists, generally falling into two types: soap-based and synthetic detergents (syndets).2 Soap was the first documented cleansing agent, used since the eighth century, with the saponification process published in 1775.3 Soaps are anionic surfactants and often irritating due to their alkaline nature and tendency to form insoluble salts in hard or sea water. Over time, consumer expectations expanded to include health, cosmetic, and environmental benefits.3,4

The development of soap-free syndets in the 1940s was a major breakthrough, enabling milder cleansing.5 Like soaps, syndets are amphiphilic molecules that function as wetting and foaming agents, and emulsifiers.5 Made without a strong base, they do not alter skin pH as soaps do. Syndets vary and may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or non-ionic detergents, each with different effects on irritancy and toxicity.5 Like soaps, syndets are soluble in water and organic solvents, and their detergent properties can disrupt the skin barrier (Table 1).5,6 Lipid-free cleansers are neutral pH liquids that clean without fats and can be removed without water. They contain fatty alcohols and humectants that leave a moisturizing film and are recommended for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.7

This evolution of cleansers provides skin care benefits beyond cleansing and forms a range of cosmetic products that vary in mildness, moisturizing efficacy, aesthetics (feel, creaminess, fragrance, foaming/lather), and other factors. Effective cleansers based on mild syndets and/or emollients that minimally interact with the stratum corneum structure help minimize the potential damage to skin and are helpful for patients with a compromised