BACKGROUND
Retinoic Acid (tretinoin)
formally established as an effective treatment for photodamaged
skin. With over thirty years of research data to
support its clinical and histological effects, tretinoin is also the
most extensively studied therapy for photodamage.1-12 Clinical
signs of photodamage include the presence of fine and coarse
wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, uneven skin tone, and rough
skin texture. These characteristics also manifest in intrinsically
or chronologically-aged skin and have also been shown to respond
to treatment with tretinoin.14-16 Numerous clinical studies
with tretinoin have shown significant improvements in these
parameters, along with supporting histological evidence of increased
epidermal thickness, stratum corneum compaction,
decreased melanin content, as well as an increased deposition
and organization of collagen and elastin fibers.8, 9, 12, 13 Tretinoin
achieves these effects by binding nuclear retinoic acid receptors,
and inducing a variety of molecular changes in the skin including
keratolytic activity, inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase production,
and stimulation of collagen synthesis.17-19 Currently, topical
tretinoin is available in concentrations ranging from 0.02% to
0.1%, with the most frequently recommended products available
in the following concentrations: 0.025%, 0.05%, and 0.1%.20
A derivatives, that is a metabolic precursor of RA. Topically
applied retinol has been shown to improve the appearance of
photodamaged skin.21, 22 The bioactivity of retinol in the skin relates
to its conversion to RA, the “active†form, which then exerts
a variety of effects discussed above. A simplified overview of RA’s
metabolic precursors converting to RA is provided in Figure 1.
unable to produce the clinical improvements in photodamaged
skin achieved with prescription products such as RA. Taking into
account that retinol is a metabolic precursor to RA, an established
treatment for photodamaged skin, it follows that retinol
may have a greater potential to achieve similar clinical effects.
than tretinoin.23 However, there have been limited or no clinical
studies that compare retinol to tretinoin using this theoretical
conversion as a basis.
the efficacy and tolerability of a cosmetic tri-retinol 1.1%
product vs. tretinoin 0.025%.24 Results from this study demonstrated
comparable efficacy between the two products in
reducing the appearance of photodamage when applied topically
for 12 weeks. Although the study was novel in comparing
the clinical effects of topically applied retinol vs. tretinoin, and
furthered our understanding that retinol could indeed produce
similar effects to the appearance of photodamaged skin, it did
not support the conversion theory that retinol is approximately
ten times less potent than tretinoin; in the study, retinol was
used at a much higher concentration in comparison to tretinoin
(approximately forty-four to one).
tretinoin was studied in EpidermFT (EFT-400) tissues and showed
comparable effects of retinol 0.5% vs. tretinoin 0.05% in UV damaged
tissues. Total mRNA isolation and RT-PCR of the treated
tissues resulted in similar induction of efficacy markers (COL1A1,
ELN, LOXL1, and MFAP2) for both retinol and tretinoin.25
tretinoin could provide similar clinical effects in photodamage
when topically applied, three formulations containing
0.25%, 0.5%, and 1.0% retinol were developed to correspond
to the three commonly prescribed concentrations of tretinoin
(0.025%, 0.05%, and 0.1%).
CLINICAL STUDY
Study Objectives
conducted to compare the efficacy and tolerability of three concentrations
of a retinol formulation (Ret) including 0.25%, 0.5%,
and 1.0%, against three corresponding strengths of tretinoin
(0.025%, 0.05%, and 0.1%) in subjects with moderate to severe
facial photodamage.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
the initiation of the study. The study was conducted according
to ethical and regulatory principles from the International
Conference on Harmonisation of Technical Requirements for
Registration of Pharmaceuticals for Human Use. All subjects
signed an informed consent form prior to study entry. The study
was conducted from March 2013 to July 2013.
of age with Fitzpatrick Skin Types II-IV and moderate to se-
Subjects must have discontinued use of topical prescription
drugs similar to tretinoin at least three months of study start
and could not have received facial resurfacing procedures
(chemical peels, laser, dermabrasion, injectables) within the
six months of study start.
cells (Cell 1, Cell 2, and Cell 3). Approximately twenty
subjects were recruited for each treatment cell. Two paired
test products were assigned for each treatment cell and are
presented in Table 1. The three tretinoin products used in the
study were generic cream formulations (manufactured by Ortho
Pharmaceutical a division of Janssen Ortho LLC) and the
three retinol products were lotion formulations (manufactured
by SkinMedica Inc., an Allergan Company).
their left or right facial side based on a predetermined randomization.
During the first week, subjects were instructed to apply
a thin layer of the test products onto their facial skin every
other evening after cleansing. Afterwards, subjects increased
the application frequency to every evening. The test products
were used in conjunction with a basic skincare regimen, which
included a cleanser (SkinMedica Facial Cleanser), moisturizer
(SkinMedica Ultra Sheer Moisturizer), and sunscreen (Daily
Physical Defense SPF30+ Sunscreen).
CLINICAL ASSESSMENTS
by the investigator at all visits (baseline and weeks 4,
8, and 12) using a modified Griffiths ten point scale according to the following numerical definitions (half-point scores
were allowed as necessary to more accurately describe the
skin condition). To help ensure consistency and reliability in
the visual grading, each subject was graded by the same investigator
throughout the study.
investigator for the left and right facial sides at all visits:
for each facial side was assessed by the investigator
using the following five point scale: 0=no change, 1=minimal
improvement, 2=mild improvement, 3=moderate improvement,
4=marked or significant improvement.
their experience with the test products at week 12.
a four-point scale (where 0=none, 1=mild, 2=moderate, and
3=severe). The investigator evaluated local cutaneous tolerability
including erythema, dryness/scaling, and edema and the
subjects reported on the degree of burning/stinging and itching
experienced on the left and right facial sides.
and right facial sides at all visits using the VISIA-CR camera system
(Canfield Scientific, Inc., Fairfield, New Jersey). Subjects
removed all makeup and jewelry prior to imaging procedures
and were instructed to adopt a neutral, non-smiling expression
with eyes gently closed. Subjects were provided with a black
matte headband to prevent hair from covering the face and a
black matte cloth was draped over the subject’s clothing.
analysis included the intent-to-treat (ITT) population. The ITT
population comprises all subjects that completed the baseline
visit evaluations and at least one post-baseline visit. All
statistical tests were performed using SAS software version
level alpha=0.05. P-values were reported to three
decimal places (0.000).
parameters was conducted including the mean, median, standard
deviation, minimum and maximum grades at all visits. The
calculation of mean change from baseline, defined as the postbaseline
grade for a parameter minus the baseline grade for
that same parameter was also calculated for each parameter.
The Wilcoxon signed-rank test was used to test the null hypothesis
that the mean change at the post-baseline visit was zero.
In addition the mean percent change from baseline for each parameter
was also calculated using the following formula:
test products within each treatment cell (Test Product A vs. Test
Product B; Test Product C vs. Test Product D; and Test Product
E vs. Test Product F) were conducted using a Wilcoxon signedrank
test for all efficacy and tolerability parameters at all
follow-up visits. For the subject questionnaire, the frequency
and percentage of all responses (strongly agree, agree, disagree,
and strongly disagree) were reported.
test products within each treatment cell (Test Product A vs. Test
Product B; Test Product C vs. Test Product D; and Test Product
E vs. Test Product F) were conducted using a Wilcoxon signedrank
test for all efficacy and tolerability parameters at all
follow-up visits. For the subject questionnaire, the frequency
and percentage of all responses (strongly agree, agree, disagree,
and strongly disagree) were reported.
RESULTS
Seventy-two subjects aged 41-65 years with Fitzpatrick Skin
Types II-IV and moderate to severe facial photodamage were
enrolled into the study. Of these subjects, sixty-nine were
included in the intent-to-treat (ITT) population for statistical
analysis (2 subjects discontinued prior to their week 4 visit
due to an adverse event and were excluded from the intent-totreat
(ITT) population analysis). Three subjects discontinued
after their week 4 visit due to an adverse event and 1 voluntarily
discontinued, unrelated to study product. Sixty-five
subjects completed the twelve- week study. In Treatment Cell
1, a total of 24 subjects completed the study and were included
in the ITT population. In Treatment Cell 2, a total of 20
subjects completed the study and 23 subjects were included
in the ITT population. Lastly, in Treatment Cell 3, 21 subjects
completed the study and 22 subjects were included in the ITT
population. The demographics of the ITT population for each
treatment cell are presented in Table 2.
Efficacy
The test products in all three treatment cells produced statistically
significant decreases (improvements) in mean scores for
fine lines/wrinkles (periocular and cheek areas), coarse lines/
wrinkles (periocular and cheek areas), skin tone brightness,
mottled pigmentation, tactile roughness, and overall photodamage at weeks 8 and 12 when compared to baseline (all
P?0.002). In addition earlier significant decreases were observed
at week 4 compared to baseline for fine lines/wrinkles
(periocular and cheek areas), coarse lines/wrinkles (periocular
and cheek areas) and overall photodamage (all P?0.02).
parameters between the paired test products (Test Product
A vs. Test Product B; Test Product C vs. Test Product D; Test Product
E vs. Test Product F), there were no statistically significant
differences at weeks 4, 8, and 12 (all P?0.281). The mean percent
changes in all photodamage parameters at week 12 and
for the Overall Photodamage assessment over time (weeks 4,
8, and 12) are presented for Treatment Cell 1 in Figures 2 and
3, Treatment Cell 2 in Figures 4 and 5, and Treatment Cell 3 in
Figures 6 and 7. Standardized digital photographs of treated
subjects representative of the improvements observed by the
investigator, are shown in Figures 8-10.
Mean scores for erythema, dryness/scaling, and burning/stinging
remained mild or below at weeks 4, 8, and 12. At week 4,
mean tolerability scores significantly increased for all treatment
group test products compared to baseline (all P?0.04).
At week 8, there was a significant increase in mean erythema
scores for burning/stinging (Treatment Cell 1 only). By week
12, there were no significant increases in any of the tolerability
parameters for all test products.
Twenty-two adverse events (AEs) of moderate skin reactions
commonly associated with retinoid use, such as erythema,
peeling, stinging/burning and dryness, were reported during
the study. The incidence of AEs were evenly distributed among
AEs, Treatment Cell 2: 7 AEs, Treatment Cell 3: 8 AEs). All AEs
resolved without sequelae.
CONCLUSION
a ten to one ratio of retinol to tretinoin may provide comparable
clinical effects in subjects with moderate to severe
photodamaged facial skin, without relying upon a high ratio
of retinol to tretinoin (approximately forty-four times, as
shown in a previous study). The three retinol formulations
(0.25%, 0.5%, and 1.0%) provided similar significant reductions
in all photodamage parameters when compared to
baseline and when compared to the corresponding three
tretinoin creams (0.025%, 0.05%, and 0.1%). These study results
build upon the comparable induction of key collagen
and elastin markers observed in a previous study with EFT-
400 tissues after treatment with a ten to one ratio of retinol
and tretinoin. However additional studies are needed to further
explore this theory.
endpoints, which could further support the clinical changes
observed by the investigator and the self-perceived changes
observed by the subjects. The histological effects of retinoic
acid on the forearm skin has been compared to salicylic acid
design could provide further characterization of the changes
when comparing topically-applied retinol and tretinoin.
broader topical options with retinol for patients and
physicians seeking improvements in the appearance of photodamaged
skin.
DISCLOSURES
Inc, an Allergan Company.
Makino are employees of SkinMedica Inc., an Allergan Company.
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