protection, and development of standardized guidelines for in
vivo assessments of VL-PF and interpretation of this value.
CONCLUSION
In summary, our results show that products containing FeO
protect the skin from VIS-induced pigmentation better than a
mineral SPF50+ sunscreen containing TiO2 and ZnO. These findings
highlight that FeO pigments-based foundation formulations
can play a dual role by camouflaging existing pigmentation, as
well as reducing the development of pigmentation triggered by
sun exposure. The rising evidence that VIS and IR can induce
long lasting biological responses in human skin has created the
need to find non-traditional strategies for full spectrum photoprotection
and beyond the UV range. Moreover, it is essential
to identify different ways to bring clinically visible benefits that
are compatible to daily routines of patients for minimizing the
damaging effects of chronic sun exposure. The availability of
topical products containing pigments and/or metal oxides, such
as foundations in multiple shades and tones, can offer customized
daily protection beyond UV for individuals of all skin
phototypes.
DISCLOSURES
Pearl Grimes serves as a consultant for VT Cosmetics, Incyte and
Dermaforce; as an investigator for Aclaris Therapeutics, Allergam,
Pfizer, L’Oreal, Johnson & Johnson, Clinuvel, Thync Global
Inc., VT Cosmetics and Incyte. All other authors are employees
of L’Oreal Research & Innovation, USA.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We thank Anil Shah for obtaining the absorbance spectra of test
products, Dr. Kumar Pillai for critical reading of the manuscript, and
Dermablend Professional for providing full coverage foundations.
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15. Boukari F, Jourdan E, Fontas E, et al. Prevention of melasma relapses with sunscreen combining protection against UV and short wavelengths of visible light: a prospective randomized comparative trial. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2015 Jan;72(1):189-90.e1.
16. Cole C, Shyr T, Ou-Yang H. Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2016 Jan;32(1):5-10.
17. Mahmoud BH, Hexsel CL, Hamzavi IH, Lim HW. Effects of visible light on the skin. Photochem Photobiol. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):450-62. 18. Cho S, Lee MJ, Kim MS, et al. Infrared plus visible light and heat from natural sunlight participate in the expression of MMPs and type I procollagen as well as infiltration of inflammatory cell in human skin in vivo. J Dermatol Sci 2008 50:123–33
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22. Pathak MA, Riley FJ, Fitzpatrick TB and Curwen WL. Melanin formation in human skin induced by long-wave ultra-violet and visible light. Nature. 1962 Jan 13;193:148-50.
23. Nahhas AF, Abdel-Malek Z, Kohli I, Braunberger TL, et al. The potential role of antioxidants in mitigating skin hyperpigmentation resulting from ultraviolet and visible light-induced oxidative stress. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2019 Nov;35(6):420-428. 24. Juturu V, Bowman JP, Deshpande J. Overall skin tone and skin-lighteningimproving effects with oral supplementation of lutein and zeaxanthin isomers: a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016;9:325–332.
25. Cesarini JP, Michel L, Maurette JM, et al. Immediate effects of UV radiation on the skin: modification by an antioxidant complex containing carotenoids. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2003;19:182–189.
26. Middelkamp-Hup MA, Pathak MA, Parrado C, et al. Orally administered Polypodium leucotomos extract decreases psoralen-UVA- induced phototoxicity, pigmentation, and damage of human skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;50:41–49.
27. Kohli I, Lyons A, Zubair R, et al. 800 Efficacy evaluation of an antioxidant complex on visible light-induced biologic effects. 2019 J Invest Dermatol. 139(5):S138.
28. International standard ISO 24444:2010. Sun protection test methods–in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). Reference number ISO 24444:2010 (E). https://www.iso.org/standard/46523.html. Accessed October 13, 2019.
29. Sunscreen drug products for over the counter human use: proposed amendment of final monograph; Department of health and human services, FDA, USA. 2011;76(117). https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-2011-06-17/ pdf/2011-14769.pdf. Accessed October 13, 2019.
30. Australian/New Zealand Standard: Sunscreen products–Evaluation and classification. AS/NZS 2604:2012. https://shop.standards.govt.nz/ catalog/2604:2012(AS%7CNZS)/scope. Accessed October 13, 2019.
31. Kohli I, Nahhas AF, Braunberger TL. Spectral characteristics of visible lightinduced pigmentation and visible light protection factor. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2019;00:1–7.
32. Schalka S, de Paula Correa M, Sawada LY, et al. A novel method for evaluating sun visible light protection factor and pigmentation protection factor of sunscreens. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2019 Aug 28;12:605–616.
2. Sample A & HE YY. Mechanisms and prevention of UV-induced melanoma. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2018 Jan;34(1):13-24.
3. Mahmoud BH, Ruvolo E, Hexsel CL, et al. Impact of long-wavelength UVA and visible light on melanocompetent skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2010 Aug;130(8):2092-7.
4. Ramasubramaniam R, Roy A, Sharma B, et al. Are there mechanistic differences between ultraviolet and visible radiation induced skin pigmentation? Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2011 Dec;10(12):1887-93.
5. Randhawa M, Seo I, Liebel F, et al. Visible light induces melanogenesis in human skin through a photoadaptive response. PLoS One. 2015 Jun 29;10(6):e0130949.
6. Kohli I, Chaowattanapanit TF, Mohammad CL, et al. Synergistic effects of long-wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light on pigmentation and erythema. Br J Dermatol. 2017 Sep 6.
7. Kohli I, Zubair R, Lyons AB, et al. Impact of long-wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light on light-skinned individuals. Photochem Photobiol. 2019 Jul 25.
8. Kohli I, Braunberger TL, Nahhas AF, et al. Long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light photoprotection: A multimodality assessment of dose and response. Photochem Photobiol. 2019 Aug 29.
9. Duteil L, Esdaille J, Maubert Y, et al. A method to assess the protective efficacy of sunscreens against visible light-induced pigmentation. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2017 Sep;33(5):260-266.
10. Regazzetti C, Sormani L, Debayle D, et al. Melanocytes sense blue light and regulate pigmentation through opsin-3. J Invest Dermatol. 2018 Jan;138(1):171-178.
11. Ozdeslik RN, Olinski LE, Trieu MM, et al. Human nonvisual opsin 3 regulates pigmentation of epidermal melanocytes through functional interaction with melanocortin 1 receptor. Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A. 2019 Jun 4;116(23):11508-11517.
12. Ruvolo E, Fair M, Hutson A, et al. Photoprotection against visible light induced pigmentation. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Dec;40(6):589-595.
13. Martins Martini AP, Bernado Gonclves PM. Influence of visible light on cutaneous hyperchromias: clinical efficacy of broad spectrum sunscreens. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2018 Jan 30.
14. Castanedo-Cazares JP, Hernandez-Blanco D, Carlos-Ortega B, et al. Nearvisible light and UV photoprotection in the treatment of melasma: a double- blind randomized trial. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2014 Feb;30(1):35-42.
15. Boukari F, Jourdan E, Fontas E, et al. Prevention of melasma relapses with sunscreen combining protection against UV and short wavelengths of visible light: a prospective randomized comparative trial. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2015 Jan;72(1):189-90.e1.
16. Cole C, Shyr T, Ou-Yang H. Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2016 Jan;32(1):5-10.
17. Mahmoud BH, Hexsel CL, Hamzavi IH, Lim HW. Effects of visible light on the skin. Photochem Photobiol. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):450-62. 18. Cho S, Lee MJ, Kim MS, et al. Infrared plus visible light and heat from natural sunlight participate in the expression of MMPs and type I procollagen as well as infiltration of inflammatory cell in human skin in vivo. J Dermatol Sci 2008 50:123–33
19. Liebel F, Kaur S, Ruvolo E, et al. Irradiation of skin with visible light induces reactive oxygen species and matrix degrading enzymes. J Invest Dermatol. 2012;132:1901-1907.
20. Kollias N, Bager A. An experimental study of the changes in pigmentation in human skin in vivo with visible and near infrared light. Photochem Photobiol. 1984;39:651-65
21. Honigsmann H, Schuler G, Aberer W, et al. Immediate pigment darkening phenomenon. A reevaluation of its mechanisms. J Invest Dermatol. 1986 Nov;87(5):648-52.
22. Pathak MA, Riley FJ, Fitzpatrick TB and Curwen WL. Melanin formation in human skin induced by long-wave ultra-violet and visible light. Nature. 1962 Jan 13;193:148-50.
23. Nahhas AF, Abdel-Malek Z, Kohli I, Braunberger TL, et al. The potential role of antioxidants in mitigating skin hyperpigmentation resulting from ultraviolet and visible light-induced oxidative stress. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2019 Nov;35(6):420-428. 24. Juturu V, Bowman JP, Deshpande J. Overall skin tone and skin-lighteningimproving effects with oral supplementation of lutein and zeaxanthin isomers: a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016;9:325–332.
25. Cesarini JP, Michel L, Maurette JM, et al. Immediate effects of UV radiation on the skin: modification by an antioxidant complex containing carotenoids. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2003;19:182–189.
26. Middelkamp-Hup MA, Pathak MA, Parrado C, et al. Orally administered Polypodium leucotomos extract decreases psoralen-UVA- induced phototoxicity, pigmentation, and damage of human skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;50:41–49.
27. Kohli I, Lyons A, Zubair R, et al. 800 Efficacy evaluation of an antioxidant complex on visible light-induced biologic effects. 2019 J Invest Dermatol. 139(5):S138.
28. International standard ISO 24444:2010. Sun protection test methods–in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). Reference number ISO 24444:2010 (E). https://www.iso.org/standard/46523.html. Accessed October 13, 2019.
29. Sunscreen drug products for over the counter human use: proposed amendment of final monograph; Department of health and human services, FDA, USA. 2011;76(117). https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-2011-06-17/ pdf/2011-14769.pdf. Accessed October 13, 2019.
30. Australian/New Zealand Standard: Sunscreen products–Evaluation and classification. AS/NZS 2604:2012. https://shop.standards.govt.nz/ catalog/2604:2012(AS%7CNZS)/scope. Accessed October 13, 2019.
31. Kohli I, Nahhas AF, Braunberger TL. Spectral characteristics of visible lightinduced pigmentation and visible light protection factor. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2019;00:1–7.
32. Schalka S, de Paula Correa M, Sawada LY, et al. A novel method for evaluating sun visible light protection factor and pigmentation protection factor of sunscreens. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2019 Aug 28;12:605–616.
AUTHOR CORRESPONDENCE
Janet Wangari-Talbot PhD janet.wangaritalbot@rd.loreal.com
