ARTICLE: Evolution of Skin Barrier Science for Healthy and Compromised Skin

April 2021 | Volume 20 | Issue 4 | Supplement Individual Articles | s3 | Copyright © April 2021


Published online April 6, 2021

Marek Haftek MD PhD,a Daniel C. Roy PhD,b I-Chien Liao PhDb

aCNRS UMR5305 LBTI - Laboratory for Tissue Biology and Therapeutic Engineering, Lyon, France
bL’Oréal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ

patients that replaced standard moisturizers with ceramidedominate lipid-based emollients experienced reduced injury severity, decreased TEWL, and increased hydration.66 In cases of mild-to-moderate eczema, moisturizers and cleansers containing ceramides outperformed mild bar soap, when each was paired with a topical corticosteroid, by reducing severity scores within the first week of application.67 Similarly, twice-daily application of a ceramide-containing cleanser and moisturizer reduced dryness, itching, and other AD symptoms in both adult (>12 year old) and child (<12 year old) populations after 42 days compared to baseline.68 When used in combination with the corticosteroid mometasone furoate, ceramide-linoleic acid-containing moisturizer accelerated the reestablishment of the epidermal permeability barrier, increased capacitance, reduced TEWL, and reduced pruritus in AD patients compared to mometasone furoate alone.69 When applied to psoriasis vulgaris, a similar combination treatment reduced pruritus, accelerated the reduction in TEWL, and increased capacitance compared to mometasone furoate cream alone.70 Consumer perception following application of ceramide-containing moisturizers is also improved, as one study found that ~70% of subjects with mild-to-moderate psoriasis self-reported improved appearance and when a ceramide-containing cream was used in combination with a ceramide-containing cleanser, 85% reported relief of psoriasis, and ~90% experienced soft and smooth skin.71 While it is important to acknowledge that these studies do not suggest that the improved clinical outcomes are solely due to the inclusion of ceramides, they nonetheless highlight the positive impact of regular application of ceramide-containing moisturizers to support recovery from skin conditions associated with compromised barrier.

CONCLUSION

Formation and restoration of abolished SC barrier is a dynamic, finely regulated process prone to the influences from intrinsic and environmental factors. In addition to disease conditions (eg, AD and psoriasis) and severe environmental exposures from ultraviolet rays or pollution, events that occur in everyday life can also negatively impact the skin barrier. The importance of the SC in maintaining skin homeostasis, coupled with the prevalence and severity of internal and external factors that can alter its permeability, highlight the need for topical products to support the skin barrier. Fortunately, continued progress in the understanding of the epidermal permeability barrier structure, composition, and function provides sound foundations for knowledge-based elaboration of topical treatments aimed at the maintenance and improvement of patients’ skin in health and disease. This advanced understanding is evidenced by the inclusion of essential lipids (eg, ceramides) into moisturizers and skin protectants. Whether applied alongside a topical drug for disease management (eg, corticosteroids for AD) or as part of one’s daily skin care routine, ceramide-containing topical products are an effective way to help restore and maintain the skin barrier.

DISCLOSURE

Dr. Marek Haftek has received honoraria for consultancy from L’Oréal Research and Innovation.

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