Alteration to the Skin Ceramide Profile Following Broad-Spectrum UV Exposure

January 2022 | Volume 21 | Issue 1 | Original Article | 77 | Copyright © January 2022


Published online December 31, 2021

Rebecca Barresi, Hawasatu Dumbuya PhD, I-Chien Liao PhD, Ying Chen PhD, Xi Yan MD PhD, Janet Wangari-Olivero PhD, Nada Baalbaki PhD, Stephen Lynch PhD, Patricia Brieva PhD, Miao Wang, Qian Zheng MD PhD, Charbel Bouez PhD

L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ

Abstract
The epidermal stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, principally consisting of an equimolar ratio of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol, plays a crucial role in maintaining proper skin barrier function. Conditions which impair barrier integrity, such as in atopic dermatitis, correlate with the alternation of key ceramide subclasses and reduced chain length of acyl moieties. However, there is limited knowledge about the impact of unprotected repeat sun exposure on the skin lipid composition, especially ceramide profiles.

This study investigated the effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the ceramide profile using both an ex vivo skin and a clinical model. Lipidomic analysis of UV-exposed skin showed shifts to the composition of ceramide subclasses essential in repairing and strengthening the SC barrier (including CER1[EOS], CER3[NP], and CER6[AP]) and reduced very long-chain acyl moieties. Gene expression analysis and immunohistochemical staining of key enzymes (aSMase, DES1, CerS5, CerS3) suggested that lipid alterations can be attributed to changes within the ceramide biosynthesis process. Topical application of ceramide-containing suncare products help maintain SC-essential ceramide subclasses and proper ceramide chain length, demonstrating the importance of proper photoprotection to maintain healthy skin barrier and ceramide quality during daily sun exposure.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(1):77-85. doi:10.36849/JDD.6331

INTRODUCTION

A healthy SC is critical in preventing water loss, maintaining relative barrier impermeability, and protecting against external aggressors.1 One of the critical compositions of SC is the lipid matrix. This matrix contains an equimolar ratio of cholesterol (CHOL), free fatty acids (FFAs), and ceramides (CERs).2 The molecular balance of the lipid matrix is strictly regulated by the lipid metabolism and acyl-chain trafficking in order to ensure the proper level of structural lipid synthesis.3 Functionally, ceramides help regulate cellular processes and maintain the barrier integrity of the skin. Specifically, ceramides contribute to proliferation, differentiation, and apoptosis processes, as well as immunological activity.4,5 Ceramides interact with other SC lipids to form multi-layered intercorneocyte matrix and control the water permeability of the skin. In skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis (AD), psoriasis, Netherton syndrome, and lamellar ichthyosis, the balance of the ceramide subclasses and the enzymes driving the lipid metabolism differ from the composition of normal skin.4,6 These alterations in the ceramides, along with changes to FFA and CER chain lengths, lead to significant perturbation of the lipid organization and disruption of skin barrier function that often clinically manifest as dry, scaly, itching, erythematous skin with excessive trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).6–8

The skin barrier is susceptible to various exogenous factors, such as solar UV radiation. UV was shown to disrupt skin barrier integrity by increasing TEWL, while decreasing skin hydration, promoting SC and epidermal thickness, and changing lipid and protein levels and structures in various human skin models.9–11 Recently, we demonstrated that repeated UV exposures alter the expression of key barrier proteins and disrupt mechanical junctions.12 These changes were prevented by the use of a ceramide-containing sunscreen.12 In a recent clinical study, a physiological dose of UV (2MED) negatively impacted morphological organization and maturation of cells at the skin surface, which were prevented by application of a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizing cream routine.13 Nevertheless, despite the growing understanding of UV-induced skin barrier damage, there is limited knowledge on the impact of UV on SC lipid organization and how it relates to skin barrier function. Therefore, the objective of this study was to investigate the impact of UV on ceramide subclass and chain length following exposure to a single and repeated UV doses on fresh ex vivo human skin and on healthy volunteers.

EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN

Ex Vivo Tissue Model
Fresh post-abdominoplasty normal human skin samples (seven