have created opportunities for more customized pigmentation
treatment. Our initial study confirmed that the use of this
novel cosmeceutical formulation is as effective as this gold
standard of prescription hyperpigmentation therapy.1 This research
took our initial findings a step further by examining
the efficacy of maintenance treatment for 20 weeks with a
hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, ellagic acid, yeast extract,
and salicylic acid cosmetic formulation during the summer
months, the most difficult time to treat hyperpigmentary
disorders. This cosmeceutical product was specifically formulated
to target different cutaneous layers in order to provide a
comprehensive approach for melanin removal from the skin
and prevention of new pigment formation without seasonal
limitations. The cosmetic formulation improved skin feel and
appearance while maintaining the pigment lightening results
achieved with the hydroquinone/tretinoin combination.
Surprisingly, the improvement in pigmentation actually continued
after the discontinuation of prescription and lasted
throughout the entire duration of the 20-week study.
This research examined a method for combining pharmaceuticals
with cosmeceuticals. The combination achieved
statistically significant improvement in pigmentation that persisted
for 20 weeks. This methodology may be the future of
dermatology care for appearance related issues, attesting to
the possible synergy between the cycled use of prescription
and cosmeceutical regimens.
DISCLOSUREs
Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, performed this work at her research
facility as part of a research grant from SkinCeuticals, a division
of L'Oreal. The remaining authors are employees of L'Oreal.
REFERENCES
- Torok HM, Jones T, Rich P, Smith S: Hydroquinone 4%, tretinoin 0.05%, flucinolone acetonide 0.01%: a safe and efficacious 12-month treatment for melasma. Cutis. 2005;75:57-62.
- Draelos ZD. Skin lightening preparations and the hydoquinone controversy. Dermatol Ther. 2007;20(5):308-13.
- McGregor D. Hydroquinone: an evaluation of the human risks from its carcinogenic and mutagenic properties. Crit Rev Toxicol. 2007;37(10):887-914.
- Chang, TS. An updated review of tyrosinase inhibitors. Int J Mol Sci. 2009;10(6):2440-2475.
- Halder RM, Richards GM. Management of dyschromias in ethnic skin. Dermatol Ther. 3002;17(2):151-7.
- Draelos ZD. Dyspigmentation, skin physiology, and a novel approach to skin lightening. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2013;12(4):247-253.
- Cognis Patent US8247447 B2 Use of derivatives of 4-hydroxyphenoxy acetic acid.
- Yoshimura M, Watanabe Y, Kasai K, Yamakoshi J, Koga T. Inhibitory effect of an ellagic acid-rich pomegranate extract on tyrosinase activity and ultraviolet-induced pigmentation. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2005:69(12):2368-2373.
- Shimogaki H, Tanaka Y, Tamai H, Masuda M. In vitro and in vivo evaluation of ellagic acid on melanogenesis inhibition. J Cosmet Sci. 2000:22(4):291-303.
- L’Oreal Patent WO 2012072951 A1 Use of an extract of yeast of the saccharomyces genus to improve the brightness of the skin tone, and composition containing at least said extract and a depigmenting agent.
AUTHOR CORRESPONDENCE
Zoe Diana Draelos MDzdraelos@northstate.net